20 Most Recent 2008 Buick Lucerne Questions & Answers

So many bad answers here it's amazing. The real solution to this well known problem is the fuel pump relay that is located beneath the back seat. The relay gets hot because it is on constantly and after years of use, it begins to loose it's good connection and creates more resistance at the connection pins and begins to meltdown and eventually complete failure of not only the relay but most times the surrounding relays in the relay box are also damaged if not caught in time. The solution is to replace the fuel pump relay before a meltdown. If too late, the whole relay box will need to be replaced. Look on youtube for videos of this issue.

'"Lighter Ports"? You mean accessory power outlets and cigarette lighters? Fuses 26 and 31.

Buick Lucerne (2006-2011) fuses and relays

Fuse Box Diagrams https://fuse-box.info > buick > buick-lucerne-2006-20... Cigar lighter (power outlet) fuses in the Buick Lucerne are the fuses ? F14 and F23 in the Rear Under seat Fuse Box (2006-2007) or fuses ? F26 and F31 in the Rear ...

2008 Buick Lucerne fuse box diagram

StartMyCar https://www.startmycar.com > Lucerne > Fuse box The 2008 Buick Lucerne has 2 different fuse boxes: Underhood Fuse Block diagram. Rear Underseat Fuse Block diagram. Buick Lucerne fuse box diagrams change ...

Your best bet would not be to remove the condenser completely as this would require you to reclaim and replace your refrigerant. I would remove the radiator and unbolt the condenser to where you can move it out of your way, but leave the lines connected.

This is a fairly common issue, a new multifunction switch should remedy your problem.

headlights can be restored using a headlight restoration kit easily found at an auto parts store or even walmart. You will want to look in the car care section. It will generally involve scuffing up the headlight and then polishing back to normal with a polishing compound.

Hello. I doubt that is your brake line hanging down like that; it's more and likely one of your lighting wiring harness. If it were your brake lines; you would have low to no 'pedal' as you came to a stop. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals

I changed the trottle body and now my car is saying my traction control need servicing

Are they pulling the starter relay? Because the fuel pump relay has absolutely nothing to do with the starter circuit.

Dealers lie. If it's not leaking, it's burning.

Easy, locate pump under- or attached to resevoir at lower end, remove it gentle by pulling upward, replace with new one.

Rear Compartment Lamp The BCM supplies battery positive voltage from the INT LAMPS fuse at all times through the inadvertent power courtesy lamps circuit to the rear compartment lamp. When the rear compartment is opened, the rear compartment lamp switch closes to ground and the lamp illuminates.

I have no experience of the model but I expect the process is no different to other vehicles. Pressure bleeding is best and this is the way brakes are bled at the factory but this is difficult to duplicate in service. For bleeding after in-service repair or for routine maintenance a few options are available but mostly the traditional method of one person pumping the brake pedal while another collects fluid in a jar or bottle until there are no more air bubbles. Starting at the brake furthest from the master cylinder and working toward the closest, after filling the reservoir to the maximum and covering the open top, fit the flexible bleeder tube to the nipple and dangle the other end in a little fluid already in the bottle and then slacken the nipple by a turn or two. The assistant now pumps the brake pedal firmly but without hurry for the complete pedal travel, pausing a few seconds at the lowest and at the top... Down -1,2,3. Up - 1,2,3 and keep repeating until air-free fluid flows from the bleeder tube and not forgetting to pause every half dozen pumps to check/top up the reservoir. Forgetting this and allowing it to run dry would be a minor disaster. This technique is suitable for most vehicles most of the time but sometimes it must be varied slightly, especially for a dry system. Once air-free fluid is being expelled from the tube request the assistant to "hold the pedal down next time" and then tighten the nipple and move onto the next. If more than a dozen pumps are needed it would be wise to suspect a problem, mostly half that number suffices...

Google & YouTube is a great help to me when finding locations.