Top 20 2007 Honda Accord Sedan Questions & Answers

try getting a manual from www.reliable-store.comit's very helpful in repairing info or try manualslife.com very good online places, makes repair very easy and simple

Check The Rating Of The Bulb And Type I have Many People That Dont Realise That The Bulbs Are Not The Correct Type!! Drivers Side Works Passenger Does Not.Then Next Question is ( More Info) Are They Halogen Or Led? Or Have They Been modified it Could Be A Balast If So !! But Again More Info Needed !! We Are Here To Help !!

Hi Try flushing the engine it could well be a small amount of dirt in one of the lifters. Wynns do a fantastic engine flush Hope this helps Nick

could be the power steering pump itself. If it has a bad bearing it will do that. Especially when you turn it makes the steering pump work a lot harder.

Just a couple problems I've had. dome light left on due to faulty door open switch, spot light charger or equipment left plugged or wired to battery, lately I thought I had a bad battery but I just need to clean the terminal connections. One more thing if your car is running you can pull the negative cable off the battery. If the car dies your alternator could be the problem. If you have a light in the trunk or under the hood you could pull the bulb out to make sure you don't have a faulty switch turning them on. These are kind of simple and that is the way I start out.

Do you know what caused the spark plug to shoot out of the cylinder in the first place ? The excess pressure could of damaged other components that are now manifesting themselves in the form of low oil pressure.

If the light is on there is a fault that should be recorded in the obd memory and that should have been detected and read when you last used the scanner. When a fault is elusive it is usual to clear the code and put the light out to check if it returns and to try and establish a pattern as to when the light switches back on. A scanner loaded with good software will be able to read freeze frame data that was recorded when the fault occurred, such as speed, load, rpm, temperature and so forth; providing more clues to the nature of the fault. If the light came on and no specific fault was recorded it is probably emission related, something reinforced by the increased fuel consumption.In that case the fault could be something mechanical like the fuel pressure regulator or a sticking or leaking injector. The basics first best practice would suggest such things are checked and eliminated before delving too far into the electronics.

The rear screen heater is a pure resistance being fed with direct current and normally will cause no radio interference as it does not vibrate or oscillate, though a loose or dirty connection or dirty switch could produce interference. Some cars use the rear screen as a radio aerial and these are prone to producing radio interference, especially when trying to receive vertically polarised signals. I tried this myself using a bi-fi rear screen aerial adaptor and was very disappointed with the results, the signal-to-noise ratio was appalling. If your car uses the rear screen as an aerial there is likely to be a box of electrickery physically somewhere near the rear screen where the aerial cable originates. This box contains stuff to decouple the radio signals from the HRW circuit and will probably contain a signal amplifier. The static you hear might just be a drastic reduction in signal strength rather than actual generated interference. You can do little else but to check the connections to and from the unit particularly the ground connections and check the voltages present on the related wiring. If no external faults are found it is likely the box of electrickery has failed. Spending a while looking at dedicated forums might help further.

A grinding or rumbling noise can also be symptoms of a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint in a driveshaft. A worn wheel bearing can also cause a 'whistling' sound (as can a worn CV joint). A grinding noise with brakes is either worn pads causing metal to metal contact on the brake disk/rotor, or the brake backing plate catching on a spinning rotor ... or a loose/missing anti squeal brake shim (they stop the pads from rattling and vibrating). However, as you say a mechanic has looked at the brakes and can't find anything wrong .. I think I would begin to suspect a wheel bearing or constant velocity joint on the driveshaft (front wheel drive cars).

I use an impact gun on them. They always come off, even if they are stripped. Breaker bar with a pipe on it gives you more leverage. Lube it also.

there are two. One before the catalytic converter (Bank1 Sensor1) and one after the catalytic converter (Bank1 Sensor2). I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

try changing fuel filter

Hi, sounds like its a problem with the starter motor maybe bad power cable connection or starter solenoid , have to get it checked Also check battery connections again.

If your talking about removal and installation, Go to. www.autozone.com Register your vehicle, it's free. In the site search box, type in power steering pump. On the right side of page should be link for that info. Scroll down that page till you find your model and engine litre size. This info is for removal and installation of power steering pump. You can also click on vehicle repair guides and get the same info, after you register the vehicle.

Tune up,fuel filter,bad coils,air filter.

On the drivers door master switch there is a switch to prevent the other 3 windows from working. Check to see if it's unplugged, orf that switch is bad. with this switch unplugged, (it is a 2 pin connector), you could jump it with a wire to simulate it in the closed position, and see if the windows work.

Here's a video on your valve adjustments. Honda Accord Valve Adjustment EricTheCarGuy

go to a honda dealer

Put seat belt on!

Usually does. But I check the O2 sensors first. Ohm check them and the wires. Your cats are expensive, I don't won't to misdiagnose.