20 Most Recent 2007 Infiniti I35 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The cause of this is either a defective idle speed control valve or an intake maniflod gasket leak. The Catalytic Converter has nothing to do with idle, so that was not money well spent.

Hi there,

I'm assuming your vehicle is 2002 or newer?

I suspect there could be a sensor issue (perhaps the TPS)..

To prevent you wasting time and $'s on trial and error, I will describe a method below which should allow you to extract the fault codes from your vehicle's computer - there are several methods, but I will only show you the most common method first (if this doesn't work, we'll try a different method).

Obtaining codes will help you identify the circuits which are contributing to this condition. If this procedure is a little too confusing for you, find someone who is technically inclined and who can follow these instructions (this will save you some $'s):

Obtaining Infiniti diagnostic codes

1. Locate your vehicle's 16-pin Data connector (under dash, above driver's knee).
2. Warm engine to operating temperature (either drive for 10mins or idle engine)
3. Have a pen & paper ready (you will need this to record the codes)
4. Turn engine OFF
5. Using a jumper wire (any small wire or paper clip will do), connect pins 1 & 8 (long edge of data connector) - ensure you identify the correct pins on the LONG edge of connector.

1. Turn key to ON position (DO NOT START ENGINE).
2. Observe the orange "Engine Check" warning light on your dash cluster - it should begin to display a series of long or short flashes (these are the code sequences)
3. For 4-digit codes, each code will begin with a LONG flash (indicatingthe first digit is a "1"), followed by a series of SHORT flashes for the other digits. For 3-digit codes, each code will start with SHORT flashes, followed by consequtive flashes for the other digits.
4. Each code will be separated by a LONG pause, before the new code begins (this gives you time to record the codes).
5. The trick to reading codes is to watch for the LONG PAUSE - which indicates a new code is about to begin. Start recording the flashes on a piece of paper, in the following manner:
6. 4 digit codes - E.g. 1: Long flash (pause); short flash, short flash (pause); short flash, short flash (pause); short flash (long pause) = code 1221. 3 digit codes - E.g. 2: Short flash, short flash (pause); short flash, short flash (pause); short flash, short flash (long pause) = code 222; and so on.
7. These codes should continue repeating - for example, if there are 3 codes present, the repeat cycle will occur after the 3rd codes has been displayed

Once you have obtained your codes, report back here so I can advise what these codes relate to.

If this does not work, I will advise the next method.

Await your reply....

sounds like the power steering try this jack up the front end with engine off turn ignition key to the on position but not running turn the wheel back and forth to both stops a couple times start engine and see if whirring sound is gone

you need to check the fan fuse, and if that turns out to be ok, then move to the fan relay, disconnect the fan at the connector, and use jumper wires to a 12 volt supply ( the battery will work for this) and make sure that the fan works, if it does, its going to be a fuse or the relay 99% on the time, also check the thermostat

Yes, it is likely a loose mount or a bad bearing. This can be expensive and depends on model. Sometime it is not easy to get to without removing the whole dash board. If it is still blowing cold/warm air as needed and is only loud, then you can either elect to fix it or just turn your radio louder to help you ignore the fan noise. It is not breaking anything else by making some noise. It will just get worse until it stops working.

It is not the type if issue that will leave you stranded. It is only going to leave you hot (or cold) until you drive it to a repair shop. Dealers are way to expensive for this. Find a local shop to do this type of work when you finally need it.

Yes, this is a potential transmission rebuild due to low internal pressures, loose bands & worn clutches. I would not by this vehicle in this condition.

The pinging is due to dirty clogged combustion chamber.-------Try a BG44k treatment of fuel and thru the throttle body.
Couple of times.-------
Likely lots of deposits due to some bad gas.
Those can serve as pre-ignition sites, in addition to articially raising compression.------ Infiniti Dealers often stock BG44k.You could try Techron (by Chevron) if you can`t find BG44K. Any chemical which will clean the combustion chambers should do the trick.------- Click this link below for more details regarding pinging problem :----- http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/infiniti-i35-keeps-pinging.html --------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.

this obd2 trouble code can help you understand the meaning of code...

Your question is to vague to give concrete information, but this is what I know. Every mechanic has a favorite brand when it comes to sparkplugs. Nissan people (your Infinity is a Nissan) like to use NGK spark plugs. The oxygen sensors are what controls the air/fuel mixture once the vehicle has run for about 4 minutes. Have him change the plugs and wires, and the o2 sensors and you should be fine as long as there are no mechanical issues.

This should be what your looking for.  Found via google images.