20 Most Recent 2007 Acura MDX - Page 9 Questions & Answers

You got to look at the hoses, the condenser and the evaporator and make sure that they aren't leaking. Make sure that a dye is put in the system I identify leaks in the future. Also I've had a number of problems with the shradder valves leaking after servicing the system. A well sealed A/C system should not need topping off unless it's leaking at which point parts will have to be replaced and the system will have to go under vacuum to get the moisture out. Make sure no sealer is used as this will only cause further and more costly issues.

You'll have to give the VIN to an Acura dealer to get the code. Or you can try to go on Acura.com, register your vehicle under "Acura Owners" and you should be able to get the code from the site.

no year,. wow. there 50 causes. (have list ,ask but is point less) i use 5 -10 tests to find true cause do you want to test, or guess? step 1, ever done 60,000 mile (interval) tune up this DECADE? ask for more steps, have them all. bad spark plugs can not burn fuel; and clogged fuel filters, cause weak injection and lean misfire.

You could probably add an extra cooler to the trans lines going to the radiator.

service time

It seems like that is the cause i suggest just to test to see if the radio or the wiring causeing the drain(short) try removing and unplugging the radio and leave the memory fuse in and see if the drain is still there if not its the radio hope this helps good luck

double posted. back up 1

corroded battery terminals, clean them, and try jumper cables. both way use same crappy terms. what transmission A/T or M/T my guess, A/T so wiggle the gear shift, try neutral starts. this is the PRNDL switch wiggling it finds new fresh brass on the switch contacts, wiggle as you crank the key. if that fails then hot wire the starter solenoid. if that act causes cranking, then the starter and battery and cables are good. and means the KEY LINE is bad. if no crank , hot wired, then that means the starter bad. (battery good , battery charged in all cases) see hot wiring here. http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html in a nut shell 1: battery charged at 12.6vdc. rested. 2: chock wheels, all brakes set., in PARK (or M/T in neutral.) 3: gain access to the starter 4: unplug the key line (that is the tiny wire) on starter solenoid. 5: keys in pocket 6: jumper the solenoid tiny wire, to the big outboard lug on solenoid. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr it wont start, keys are in pocket. the starter is good, i save you 1/2 the diagnosis. in 1 simple step put the wire back removed in #4 if its dead, the KEY line is dead. ask how to fix that. next. i f so be...

(its bad, or jammed or , old DVD or broken DVD in side) its busted. get it serviced.

Front wipers. they all guess, do you want me to guess, too? surely not. or test?. we can use a voltmeter to find this. what we do is look at the schematics at alldata.com and its all clear. a simple road map; Sticking on possibles. the fuses are underhood. fuse 11 and 31 bad motor , internal keep alive cam switch stuck on, will cause continuous wiper.s so will motor colored wires green or blue hot full time will keep motor going full time (any voltmeter, easy check) 12vdc is bad, 0v good (wipers off) next and last is that wiper relay in hood fuse box, shorted. (pull it out see if they shut off?) if the relay is good then its input is wrong. the control block. the combo switch wipers on , sends a CAN buss digital commands to the MICU control block, this i turn powers up the wiper relay. the MICU has a diagnostic port,and can be tested at the dealer or errors. if the relay coil pins are hot all the time, then the MICU /combo side is failing, if not, the problem is the relay ,if its output is hot all the time. how is that?