20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet Impala SS - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The starter relay gets energized first by the ignition switch. Then the heavier contacts of the relay connects the starter directly to the battery for the high current required.Check for 12v at the relay. If none, suspect your ignition switch. Don't forget the fuse.

Any car that stood for so long need to have all the belts change before use as the belts crack and loose flexibility, the cam belt will most probably go first and will damage the valves. Most probably jumped a tooth on the cam gear and timing will be out and will not start. Check all the timing marks if still in position. Petrol can also be the problem as the filters clog with the dirt in the tank after a long period not running.

check air filter and fuel filter. look at spark plugs and wires make sure they are in good shape also.

light staying on in the boot or under the bonnet

have it scanned you may have a tranny code

in the tank sorry

Sorry about you luck. but here goes how to check it. Pour a little gas in the air inlet ( take the hose off the thriolle body.) crank it and you got fire up briefly then you know you got spart but no fuel. If it runs the fuel pump and the amount of gas in the tank are to be checked. Fuel pump fuses and relays, amount of gas in the tank. Let's say it didn't do nothing but crank, Maybe it doesn't have spark. Take a plug wire off the easies plug you can get to put an old plug or a screwdirver in the end of the wire lay it on metal and crnk it and watch for spark. ( don't hold it in your hand as if it is working it's shock you bad enough to kill you, In the worst case) You see spark and it still won't flash start with extra fuel added. Then you'll have to take a plug out to see whats going on in there. With the plug out it could be soaked with gas, antifrezze, oil, or anything else under the sun. But it could be dry and normal looking too. Test this plug in the end of the wire laying on the exhaust maniflod. If no spark your back to that or it sparks your back to gas. But let's say you still can't get it to pop off any. Maybe it over heated and the engine has little or no compression. ( with the plug wire and the plug out of the way put your finger over the hole the plug came out of and crank the motor if it blows your finger out hard its good but if you can hold it it's bad) ( blown engine ) Your not done yet ,! Put a little motor oil in the plug hole and crank it again if the pressure picks up lot it might start if you do the same to all the cyclinders and then with it all put back together start it. (It'll smoke like crazy so be ready for that) But it still might nor start. The timing chain could have skipped and the timings off enough that it won't start. Most likly it doesn't have sprk and the dist. cap is behind the water pump and it's hard to check as you need to remove the water pump to get to it. The coil wire can be removed first though and check for spark at it. No spark and the dist is turning the crank senser and or the ingition module could have failed. Take the module off and that it to the auto parts store and they can test it and sell you a new one if its bad. If you find no spark first then get the module tested before you do anything else. If the crank senser is bad you can unplug it and cross the wires the are in the plug with a paper clip on off on off and the coil should fire with a good module and the key on. If it does change the senser and you have spark and it'll run if you put everthing back together right. The cap and rotor are bad about failing on this car and they're expensive. The coil wire will fire even with a bad cap and rotor so don't jump to this till you getr good spark at the coil and not at the spark plug. Coil wire can fail too. The cars old enough that all the parts are in question till their proven good.

I would imagine you have some miles on this car already so since it is broke in I would recommend 10 W 30 oil. Quaker State or Pennzoil is the best. Others can be used if wanted. The top shelf brands are always packaged in a colorful container where as generic brands are packaged the cheapest way possible. Some are even refined used oil if you read the contents on the label.
Same with oil filters Since it is on a item that cost plenty of money put the good stuff on it always for the life on this engine depends how you care for it
5 quarts of oil is needed on your Chevrolet also
Have fun with your car as well

This is general information:
If your timing belt is broke the computer will shut the fuel pump off, as well as a low-oil pressure sensor (check your oil level).

If you have a bad Crank-shaft sensor this will happen.
A bad MAP sensor will not let the vehicle start but if you remove the electrical plug from it, it should start but will be rough.
A bad cam-sensor should only make it hard on fuel.
Inspect the wiring that leads directly to the tank - you may have broken a corroded wire, especially where it goes back into the body from the gas-tank back.
Try giving the tank a whack with a rubber hammer or chunk of wood as someone turns the key off and on to start position without actually turning the car over this will dislodge any dirt that may have got lodged into the fuel pump.

The computer or ECM:  Inspect the harness at this location for movement and rubbing of the harness causing wires to fray and or break at this location up to a couple feet of the ECM perhaps.

I don't think you could have mixed up the return line to the tank from the feel line.  The computer will shut it off if the pressure isn't reached within 2 seconds.  

Without knowing more info on to what led to this problem, why you changed anything or what was the original problem and conditions, noises.
Sometimes there is a seal that seals the fuel pump to the sending unit and if this o-ring isn't put back in, you'll **** air but I don't think that this is your problem.  I suspect the MAP or Crank Sensor.
I wouldn't replace anything without testing them though, and if you purchase a manual from Canadian Tire in Canada, it will tell you how to test each Sensor.
Most electrical I recommend taking to a garage and have them put it on the computer for $90. and then to replace the part that they put in the quote.
Good luck

In the trunk behind the lights you should find a series of small black plugs in the trunk liner. Carefully pull (or pry) these straight out and peel back the truck liner. You should then have access the the clips or nuts that hold the taillight assembly in place.

Unhook the negative first. Then the positive. Then remove the hold down bolt and lift the battery out.

THAT IS THE QUESTION

4"x6" speakers!!

$300 labor plus cost of part.. They will not warrenty the work if they don't diagnose the problem so plan on another $100 if you want then to gaurantee the fix.

Either you burned out the fuel pump relay or you killed the fuel pump or both.
When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position do you hear the pump buzz? If not your right back to where you started except now you know that problem may be before the relay (no B+)
Check for B+ at Relay, then at Pump. If B+ is at Relay and at pump then bypass pump connectors (Fabricate jumper wires and run then from battery to pump)and see if pump buzzes. If it doesn't its the pump replace. it. I normally replace both if the person ran out of gas . Those relays get pretty hot.
Lastly if all of the above is good and car still doesn't start check for residual pressure with a pressure gauge. CAUTION This last procedure you should have a certified ASE Tech perform. Furthermore its a good idea to get the shop manual for this repair.