20 Most Recent 2001 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Tilt the steering wheel down all the way and see if it starts, if it does then there is a main power wire loose in the steering columb. Thats all which comes to my mind at this time.

May be two pump fuses plus a relay. All should be in main fuse block under hood I think.

if you can't find one, it might be that either it doesn't have one (as some cars) or it might be located inside of fuel pump assemply (inside fuel tank) but that's a longer story :)

the e-brake cables could be sticking and not returning all the way free them up and adjust the cables. also you may have worn brake shoes or they need to be adjusted.

I would say more than likely it the radiator cooling fan. For some reason some vehicles, no matter what temperature, the cooling fan clutch engages which makes the cooling fan run at full speed like there's no fan clutch. It sort of makes it sound like the engine is revving up but it's simply the sound of the rushing air from the fan clutch making the cooling fan spin at full speed. Hope this helps.

Check this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChLY5h8n-7s 2000 gmc sonoma plug and wire change

On the 2001 gmc jimmy 4.3L v6 engine there are two air pump check valves: there's a pipe (about 1" diameter) that comes off each of the exhaust manifolds. the check valves are screwed onto those pipes. then a rubber hose (about 1.25" outside diameter) is clamped to the front of each check valve and connects to the air pump, which is hidden behind the vehicles grille in front of the radiator. typically, if you need to replace these (the life expectancy is about 3-4 years), it starts a chain of events that might be as follows: during the wintertime, water from the exhaust leaks through the worn out one-way check valves, and ends up in the air pump. the water freezes, and the ice jams the air pump, which may or may not ruin the air pump, but which usually blows the air pump fuse, which is impossible to find if you're rummaging around the passenger compartment fuse box or the under-hood fuse and relay box. it ain't there! so if you're looking under the hood leaning up against the front bumper, slide to your left around the passenger side headlight. now you should be looking at the battery, leaning up against the passenger side fender. look down between the battery and the fender. you have to push a few things out of the way, but there you will find a green 30 amp blade fuse (about 1" x 1" fuse--and $2.99 at autozone). this blown fuse should have triggered the check engine light and a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) of p0410 (secondary air injection system). for that vehicle there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) put out by gm (bulletin # 04-06-04-015; march 2004). if you want to print out some literature about all that i've mentioned just surf on over to http://www.obd-codes.com/p0410 for more links and documentation. my credentials: self-proclaimed auto mechanic for 26 years (sorry, no ase certification yet [but still trying to find time to study for the tests]) and college dropout (after 3 years of electrical engineering)--so, in other words, don't believe a word i say; just go to that website and get it straight from the horse's... 
Good luck and hope this helps. I know you have a Sonoma but we have the same platform. I am thinking of buying a set of headers without the Air injection system and having the jimmy dyno tuned again to eliminate the service engine light and recalibrate the ECM to eliminate the air injection pump. 

check for any fuel leaks. burning that much fuel it should be running very hot. check the float on your fuel gauge maybe your only using some of the fuel in the tank. some times the float gets stuck or has a small hole and fills up with fuel.

The two large straps hold the tank under the truck. You will need to raise the truck up enough that you can not only get under it but also have room to get the old tank out and get the new tank in. You also need to support the tank after you remove the straps at the fuel lines will still be connected and you do not want to damage them. Now is the time to remove the fuel lines, you will need a special tool that releases the the fuel lines, it is round and has a slit up one side to allow it to be placed onto the line. Once the tool is on the line you will push it towards the fat part of the line pushing the extended part of the tool into the locking assembly to release it. The tools are easily purchased at the part store but there are many sizes available so I would suggest getting a kit so you know you have the correct sizes. There are two lines, each are a different size but remove the same way. Most often you will have to work the release tools around as they never release easily. Once you get the fuel lines off you can unplug the electrical connector feeding the fuel gauge and pump and lower the old tank out. Revers the procedure to re install the new tank.You will also likely need to switch over your level sending unit and pump assembly to the new tank. The assembly is the unit the lines plug into and you can remove it by using a small pry bar and hammer to rotate the large ring that holds it in. Again you reverse this process to re install in the new tank making sure the rubber gasket sit correctly for the proper seal. If the tank sending unit is not sealed it will set an evap code and turn the check engine light on. .

I would be suspicious of low fuel pressure. One psi in this system can mean the difference between starting and not starting. Minimum fuel pressure should be 56psi. 54 or 55 will cause it not to start. It needs the pressure to open the mechanical poppets at the end of each injector. To low of pressure and the poppets will not open. When end it does not start give it a couple shots or carb spray while s helper cranks it over. If it starts and stays running than stick with the low fuel pressure theory. Under vacuum, or once the vehicle is running, the poppets require less fuel pressure to open. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

p0122 is a throttle position sensor/switch bad.p1810 is a TFP valve position switch circuit/transmission 4wheel drive low indicator short circuit to battery.p0410 is a secondary air injection system malfunction.

Check the distributor cap for cracks.

Make sure you push down hard on the clutch just for grins then, does the engine just click, click, click? If it does the battery is not dead but it is down enough so that it wont start your car. If all the above is true/right whatever all you need to do is charge the battery. If the above is NOT true/right I need more information. Text me back and I\'ll try to help.......................Bob

fusebox under hood of veh.......

fuel relay is in fusebox under hood

Could be the FUSE, the wiper motor, or the switch itself. Check the fuse first. There should be a fuse box under the driver's side dash somewhere, and the inside panel will most likely have a chart showing which fuse controls which. If the fuse is fine, checking the wiper motor with a voltmeter will determine if any power is getting to the motor. If there IS power going there when the switch is ON, it's not the switch at fault, it's the motor. Hoping for your sake it's the fuse.