no you are being lazy
you have a short bolt in a long hole and now the long bolt will not fit in a short hole
more one at a time until the long bolt goes all the way in a hole
I've put several on and it still takes me about 4 hours to do teh job. It isn't as easy as you'd think as there are spring cables to fit, some riveting to do, and a lot of the interior around the rear that has to come out.
If you want an idea of what's involved watch this video someone posted on YouTube. How to Replace Mazda Miata Top NA 90 97
Whenever you change pads, you must always pump the pedal several times to get the calipers to take up any excess space between the pad and rotor. You'll fill it in the pedal as they pump up.
You can remove thermostat and see if temp. goes down. Also check that fans are operating properly. Also check for any water leaks thru the pump (indicates pump is bad). Worst case scenario would be a bad head gasket.
there is usually a bleeder screw right on the slave cylinder that ur clutch cable connects to at the transmission. as far as fluid, just look in your manual or google it
To respond to the question of starter location for a 1993 MX5 would be: Its attached to the engine where it meets the transmission; approximately where the left foot of a passenger is placed.
If no leaks are present you will hear noise from the pumps bearing if it is bad. If running quietly you can have a sticking thermostat providing you temperature gage fluxuates while driving. It can be a plugged up radiator or heater core as well. See if any hoses are collasped. If so let the engine cool and remove the coolant fill cap. Check the coolant level. If full start and run for 15 minutes then shut it off. Loosem the hose clamp which id the highest one from the engines level. Any air will escape stopping the hose from collaping again. Air pockets will cause an engine to overheat
there fan has it's own switch as you tested it I see although there is another one that links to the engines computer. Test that one as well that is mounted on the engine wired to the computer
both fans should run with the A/C on and the A/C high pressure over 300 psi. but only the left fan should come on when the engine tempture gets to 212 degrees the right fan will not come on untill the coolent tempture is above 230 degrees....i hope this helps....i think the system is working as it is suppose to.
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION EGR SYSTEM INSUFFICIENT FLOW DETECTED.CHECK FOR VACUUM HOSE LEAK OR BLOCKAGE.CHECK WIRING CONNECTION.THE EGR VALVE OR ECM HAS FAILED.CHECK INTAKE PORT WHERE EGR VALVE SET ON.LOOK FOR CARBON BUILT UP IN SMALL HOLE BLOCKING OFF EGR FLOW.CLEAN OUT HOLE WITH A CLOTHES HANGER OR SMALL SCREW DRIVER
What you state is true invest in a new electrical ignition switch that runs off the key cylinder to run power to the starters solenoid. When they go bad the car is totally dead sometimes such as yours. Some will go bad to the starter although other functions may work such as the radio, heater fan, and so on. If your headlights and brake lights work the switch is what you need for the ignition
This is a common problem which has several causes. It's generally caused by a dirty air-intake/throttle body and a mis-functioning dashpot on the throttle body which slowed the idle dip to ensure the car doesn't stall. Sometimes an misfunctioning idle air control valve is also the culprit
Clean and check the air intake (including replacing your air filter if you haven't done that in a while)
Clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Be very careful not to damage the seal around the butterfly plate. Ensure you also clean the idle bypass properly.
Check the little dashpot at the front of the throttle body (if your model has one). The piston should move up about 1/2" smoothly (with resistance from the dashpot and spring) when you push on it. If not, lubricate it until it's working nicely.
If these don't help, check the on-board diagnostic system for any logged errors. If you're driving an American model WITH a check engine
light on the dash, put a paper clip between terminal 10 and GND in your
diagnostic box (right side of the engine bay near the air intake - has
a big DIAGNOSTIC written on it). Then hop into your car, turn the key
to ON (but don't start the engine). The light should go on steady -
then off for 4 seconds. After this any diagnostic codes will be
displayed. Long flashes are for the first digit in a two digit code -
short flashes are the second digit. There will be a 4 second pause
between each code AND the codes will repeat. If you get codes, record
them and post them and I'll see what I can suggest. If you get a code '34', it's an indication the IAC valve isn't signalling properly. Check an d replace...
Also, take note if the problem only happens when the car is in gear and the clutch is in, or out of gear with the clutch out (or any combination etc). There are a couple of switches which let your engine control unit know to increase the revs slightly to cater for the gearbox load. The one above the clutch level gets stuck sometimes. If this seems to be the problem it's pretty cheap to replace.
miata front bumper emblem 2 9/16 inches long
Watch this item
