Jeff Tourcotte, I am experiencing this same problem. I unhooked crank and cam sensor and still blow the fuses. Any chance you can email these diagrams to me seeing I can not get them to open? [email protected]
Make sure the firing order is correct. I think this link will work:
http://www.carrestorationshop.com/2001_chevrolet_blazer/q2850542-firing_order_2001_blazer_lt
Have you tried listening to see if you can hear the fuel pump run?
Try pounding on the bottom of the gas tank with the palm of your hand. Sometimes that can jar the fuel pump enough to get it to run.
You can also try putting a small amount of fuel in the throttle body and see if it starts. It won't run long but, if it starts, you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
The only thing all these have in common is the fuse panel. They all have there own fuses and circuit breakers. If they all died at once or over a short period of time, fuse panel. But if they died over the 15 year life of the truck, it could be the components.
There isn't a sensor on these. There is a regulator, if that what your looking for? it is inside the plenum attached to the injector control. Under the big plug near the rear of the engine.
The 452 is low input and the 453 is high input.The EVAP system is completely separate from the fuel system, so it has nothing to do with the regulator.
If you follow your fuel lines, you will find three lines off of the tank: 1 is the fuel supply line (from the pump to the engine), 2 is the fuel return line (from the regulator to the tank), and 3 is an EVAP line. As the tank breathes (so you don't a vacuum or pressure built up in the tank), the EVAP systems job is to make sure the gasoline vapors from the tank end up going to the intake so they can be burned. The pressure sensors are there so the computer knows if the EVAP system is doing its job correctly.
Short Answer: The sensor measures pressure inside the tank. It tells the PCM there is a leak if it sees one.
Click the link below for step by step troubleshooting:--
http://carrepairworld.blogspot.com/2016/06/2001-chevrolet-blazer-p0453-code.html
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This will help.Thanks.
How's the battery an connections an cables ? Do a voltage drop test on starter system before condemning some other part. Go on youtube an check out video on voltage drop testing a starter circuit. An yes it does have a PNP - park neutral position switch , but all so has a starter relay in the under hood fuse / relay box . When you turn the key to start B+ voltage goes from ignition switch to an through the PNP (if in p or n ) to the starter relay . If you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter on the 20 volt's scale you could check for B+ voltage at the relay with key in the start position. This would save you the aggravation of changing the PNP and finding out that wasn't the problem. Find the starter relay in the under hood fuse / relay box , it will be marked on the inside of the lid . Pull the relay an look on the bottom ,you will see some numbers 30,87,85,86 or there will be a diagram on the side of the relay. 85 an 86 or the control side ,one of these will show B+ voltage with the key in the start position ! Starter Voltage Drop This what I would think is the problem
A very common problem with the 4.3 engine is the intake manifold gasket. The coolant will leak into the intake ports and be blown out the exhaust and you may not see it or it may also leak into the engine and fill your oil pan. Often you can see the signs at the front of the engine where the intake, head and engine block meet, check both sides.
If it is not apparent there you will need to do a coolant pressure test to find the leak.
misfire codes are most often generated by faulty injectors and not what you have replaced
the misfire can be from blocked injector tip, failing injector wiring/signal and low fuel pressure
move the injector for 2 to another cylinder and see if the code moves as well to the next cylinder ( replace injector)
if not check wiring or ECM for problems
Possible Solutions Note: There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) regarding this code for a number of GM models. The TSB calls for the replacement of the AIR pump and the installation of a new secondary injection hose. The TSB can be found on this ACDelco site. Additionally, if you simply replace the AIR pump the problem may return again (and again). If you replace the pump, also clean out the hoses and replace the one-way check valve. If this is on a GM model that the TSB applies to, follow those instructions in the link above. In a few cases, people have put a small hole in the rubber cover on the pump which allows any water to drain out. Also, please note that this may be covered under the emissions warranty on the vehicle. If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty is still valid! Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve Replace the AIR pump inlet hose Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood) Sources: GM-Forums thread
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0410
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the headlights are controlled by the switch and a relay. the relay is in the fuse box and can be tested by switching the relay with another of equal amps rating. if replacing the relay does not work the the switch could be bad or the wiring could be at fault. If you are planning to keep the vehicle, I would suggest you purchase a Haynes of Chiltons manual for your vehicle.
Their is nothing either quick or easy to changeing a heater core. Most have to have all of the duct work from the AC and heater under the dash removed. The two hoses for the outside of the cowling to the core have to be removed. Some even have to have the floor board matts removed to have enough clearance
to take out the heater core. A really rough job.
Is the bolt just spinning not allowing the nut to come off? In that case remove the starter with the wire attached. Or cut the wire and replace it. Or cut off the nut with a cutoff wheel. If you have the 2 bolts off the starter should come off the car. Unless it has a hidden third bolt! Cut the damn wire if you have to. Don't forget to take off the little wire.
