Top 20 1993 Dodge Caravan - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hope this Helps

Lot of good high mileage oils out there. I prefer synthetics. Depending on your seasonal temperatures, you may want 10/30 in the winter and 20/40 for summer.

Pull the head and anything in the way of the head. Scrape off the remains of the old gasket, put new one on, torque down the head in the CORRECT sequence. The put everything else back together.

look for it between engine and transmision on the back side close to firewall if a V6 under exhaust cross pipe.

Welcome to FixYa.com

Yes,

How to:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5032703_install-remote-starter-dodge-caravan.html

Parts:

http://www.leeparts.com/dodge_caravan/accessories/electrical/remote_starter_system.html

Thank you for Using FixYa.com

Kind Regards, Lee

Your FixYa Expert and Master Technician

Well, yes, thermostat or heater core could be at issue, but unlikely without some other symptoms, like overheating. First I would look at your coolant level and then check to see if you have any water valves that close the flow to the heater.

check the spark plug gaps ,should be around 25th if too wide this will cause hard starting hot and cold

Yes it could be a fuse but I doubt it as there are other things connected with that fuse and you would notice other things not working but I could be wrong and it may have its own fuse. I would pull the plug on the motor and with a test light see if you are getting power to it. If you are then you most likely need a new motor. Good luck and I hope this helped you.

it sounds like the lock uo solenoid to the torque convertor is hung on. Find some one who knows about transmissions to unhook the plug to the lock up solenoid and ur problem will be temporarily fixed or you can put a new lock up solenoid in it to fix it. But it will not hurt it un pluged it will even save on gas.

Blown fuse, thermal relay defective, or the fan motor is defective.

Sorry you cant bleed the brake booster.

there should be one on the van itself somewhere under the hood

This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.

3.3L and 3.8L Engines

See Figure 18



Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines

1. If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
2. Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
3. Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.

To install:

1. Assemble the timing chain and gears.
2. Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
3. Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
4. Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
5. Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
6. Install the timing chain snubber.
7. Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
8. Install new O-rings to the block.
9. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
10. Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
11. Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
12. Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
13. Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
14. Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.

Most likely the light switch itself went bad.

The correct torque for the head bolts on a 3.0 v6 caravan motor is 70 Ft-lbs. (as stated in my Haynes Service manual)

I would say it's not likely to be a sensor. Be certain your transmission fluid is full, and always allow your vehicle time to warm up in the winter months. Older cars such as yours tend to have high mileage, and most never even get a routine transmission fluid change, so you may consider replacing the fluid and filter to help extend it's life and performance.

check the oil and see if it looks milky could be blown head gasket. see if it low on water

There is a hole for a special tool that comes with the vehicle as part of the jack set you slide the log rod into the hole located above the bumper near the center to the right. then you will use the jacks other part to spin it counter clockwise to lower the spare.

camshaft position sensor high input, camshaft position position sensor intermittent, ignition coil circuit. Check your circuits to these locations. also check for cracks and breaks.

Check heater fuse.
If fuse good - could be a failure of the blower fan motor or blower control switch.
If fuse bad - bad blower fan motor could have blown the fuse.
DO: check fuse, then blower motor.
Pricing: new blower motor: Duralast PM270 $43.99
new heater control switch: Duralast SW229 $46.99 (without
A/C).
I'd expect your blower resistor to be good - when they fail, the blower only will work on HIGH setting.