My Dodge Neon SXT 2003 2.0L has 106k. My car Vibrates when I go on reverse and I have already changed the top engine mount but it still vibrates. It always makes a rattleling noise between the steering fluid and the lower engine mount. I have already changed the two drive belts and put belt spray on them and it still rattles. The good thing is that the check engine light is off and it runs good. What could be the solution to these two problems.
Posted by introvert0... on
I replaced the lower passenger side engine mount and the vibration is still there but a bit less vibration. The lower passenger mount was worn out. I was told by the Dodge service dept that it takes 5 hours to change the main hidden engine mount which is mid way up the passenger side of the engine. That main hidden mount cost 75.00
To get to it you would have to remove the wheel, inner fender plastic work, windshield washer fluid tank, and etc.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Where is the dome light switch on 2003 neon ? The dome light does not come on when the front driver side door is open. There is no visible dome light switch in the door jam like most vehicles. Where is it ?
The dome lamp receives power from the 10 amp micro fuse located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) on the M1 circuit. This circuit is HOT at all times. The ground path for the lamp is provided in two different ways. One way is through the door ajar switches. Circuit M2 connects to all the door ajar switches from the dome lamp. The switches are case-grounded to the body. When a door is opened, the plunger in the switch closes, completing a path to ground. The second ground path is through the headlamp switch. Circuit M2 is spliced in with the door ajar switches. When the operator turns the headlamp switch to the dome lamp ON position, a ground path is provided through the switch on the Z1 circuit. This ground terminates at the instrument panel left center support. The time delay relay is used to allow a time-ON function for the ignition switch lamp. Power for the relay is received on the M1 circuit from the 10 amp fuse located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC ). When a door is opened, or the headlamp switch is moved to the dome lamp position, a ground path is provided for the relay on the M2 circuit. This energizes the relay, closing the contacts. When the relay contacts are closed, power is provided through the relay to the M50 circuit. The M50 circuit supplies current to the ignition switch lamp in the steering column. Ground for the lamp is provided on the Z3 circuit. This circuit splices with the glove box lamp, the ash receiver lamp, and the PRNDL lamp. The Z3 circuit terminates at the instrument panel left center support. So, I would check the time delay relay since it supplies power to the circuit. Also, check for a good ground at the instrument panel left center support.
One way is through the door ajar switches. Circuit M2 connects to all the door ajar switches from the dome lamp. The switches are case-grounded to the body. When a door is opened, the plunger in the switch closes, completing a path to ground.
The second ground path is through the headlamp switch. Circuit M2 is spliced in with the door ajar switches. When the operator turns the headlamp switch to the dome lamp ON position, a ground path is provided through the switch on the Z1 circuit. This ground terminates at the instrument panel left center support.
The time delay relay is used to allow a time-ON function for the ignition switch lamp. Power for the relay is received on the M1 circuit from the 10 amp fuse located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC ).
When a door is opened, or the headlamp switch is moved to the dome lamp position, a ground path is provided for the relay on the M2 circuit. This energizes the relay, closing the contacts. When the relay contacts are closed, power is provided through the relay to the M50 circuit.
The M50 circuit supplies current to the ignition switch lamp in the steering column. Ground for the lamp is provided on the Z3 circuit. This circuit splices with the glove box lamp, the ash receiver lamp, and the PRNDL lamp. The Z3 circuit terminates at the instrument panel left center support.
So, I would check the time delay relay since it supplies power to the circuit. Also, check for a good ground at the instrument panel left center support.
Posted on Sep 30, 2011
Hey i'm having the same problem and i am stumped! I have't changed the hidden mount yet (didn't know it was there). I was wonder if you ever figured it out!
Please send me an email if you get a chance.
Posted by hoguenstei... on
Hay i'm back today I fixed the vibration and noise problem 01-10-2009 I removed and replaced that what Dodge calls the rear engine mount the one that is through the frame rail on the passengers side. acording to the Hayes service manual it dident seem diffacult but I was wrong the manual does not tell all , the engin has to be completly free so you can push back the engine toward the drivers side to give you enough room to pull out mount from frame rail took me between 3&4 hrs I'm a industriar truck Tech by trade and had all the tools nessary to do the job call me if you want here is my home phone num. 850-971-0085
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
i have a 2003 dodge neon, the engine light came on but we couldnt find a problem soi unhooked the battery to reset. it was fine we drove this car 1100 miles to florida. since we have been here the engine light keeps comming on and now when it comes on it wont shift out of 1st gear. you could reset it and it would shift for a little bit. we took it to discount to have a diagnostic ran it through back the speed sensor. i replaced both speed sensors input and output. now the engine light stays on, it wont reset at all it wont shift and now also the speedometer will not work. we ran another diagnostic and now it is spitting out PO700 (transaxle control system malfunction) ????????????
Posted by nenawillba on
You dont have to pull the tranny to fix this. Some so called "experts" on here shouldnt be giving advice if they dont know. The solenoid pack is located in the front the transmission just below the air filter and in front of the input speed sensor you just replaced. Unbolt the connector with a 10mm socket then the bolts connecting to the tranny. Replace with a new one 140 bux or close(get a new one). Installation is vice versa. Easy fix for any person who is mechanically inclined. Always get a second or third opinion when asking a thousand dollar question on any website. Some people think they know....but they dont.
Posted on Oct 17, 2010
2003 Dodge Neon. Check engine light is on, trouble code P0016 (Cam-Crankshaft Position Sensor A bank 1).
Have replaced Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors, Light was still on. 70K miles so then went ahead and replaced timing belt and belt tensioner. Light is still on.
Timing marks on the belt line up, and the car runs just fine (starts ok, no hesitation or stalling, no knock or engine noise, normal full power).
All parts were bought at Advance Auto (aftermarket parts), service was done at Merchant Tire and Auto. Their mechanic says he doesn't know why its still on and says I'll have to take it to the dealer to figure out the problem.
Can anyone help?
Posted by reinventor... on
the computer may need to be reflashed. if it is running then it is not a bad sensor. either of those being bad would cause it not to run.
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
I havee a 2003 Dodge Neon. What kind of antifreeze do i Need? My pastic bottle is empty.
Posted by Anonymous... on
I'd recommend Preston antifreeze, manufacture recommends a 50-50 ratio of antifreeze and water
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
My 2003 dodge neon won't start. But the problem only happens every now and then so mechanics tell me that there isn't a problem. I have changed the fuel pump and had the alternator has been checked several times but mechanics say everything is fine. The car makes the sounds like it's trying to turn over but it just doesn't turn over all the way.
sometimes it starts right after I've driven it for a couple of miles and other times I have to wait for 10 minutes to an hour for it to start and sometimes it still doesn't.
It has the same problem if I start it cold too.
I haven't had the car long enough to know if it is a year round problem. Can someone please help me??
Posted by the_scar... on
Ok here is a simple question, has any one checked the battery connections? if not do so, remove the Battery ends and use a wire brush to clean the battery lugs and cable ends, if every thing is corroded use a mix of baking soda and water to remove the corrosion, while you are at it make sure the other near by connections are good, I hope this helps
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
When I drive normal or engine cold at idle no oil pressure lightbut when car warms up the oil pressure light comes on at idle.???
Posted by Renee... on
Don't delay on this. Take the vehicle in and have the oil pressure sensor checked. It could be just the sensor or it could be something more serious. A drop in oil pressure could lead to catastrophic engine failure.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
I believe that I have either a bad transmission mount or mounts, and possible a bad motor mount or mounts because the car vibrates in drive while running and also vibrates in neutral while running but not nearly as bad in neutral. How can I tell by looking at the mounts which ones are bad and which ones are good ?
Get a friend to open the hood and look at the engine go up or down in the engine compartment when the brakes are firmly applied and switching between reverse and drive. Look for the motor mounts for behavior where tears exist in the rubber.
Posted on Nov 09, 2011
I have a few issues with my car and i have no idea what could be causing it, i could use as much help as i can get:
I have an automatic 2003 Dodge Neon SXT with about 104,000 miles on it. Lately I don't drive it too much, just around town by my school and sometimes home on the weekends. When i'm stopped, the car idles at 1000 RPM's...and sometimes it's higher if the engine is cold (which i assume is normal). It does drop after that but 1000 is the lowest it goes. When i'm driving, the car does shift, but the engine revs and the RPM's seem to go high to about 3700-4000 RPM's before it shifts the first time. If I am going up a hill and press the gas to accelerate, it seems like it's hard for the car to accelerate to get up the hill unless I press down really hard on the gas, and when i do that the RPM's race anywhere from 4 grand to 4500 before it shifts and even then the car barely accelerates. After i get up the hill to go down it and let off the gas to coast, it seems like my engine is still racing as if I am pressing the gas still...kind of as if my car is going into overdrive of some sort. I'm not sure if it's because my car misses a gear when it shifts, or it just doesnt shift into the last gear. It just seems like the engine is working harder then it should for the car to accelerate.
I had a problem with the shifting about 6/7 months ago where the RPM's would race and wouldn't shift into ANY gears...when I would press the gas to accelerate, the RPM's would just about red-line and I would have to keep my speed steady at about 30 or below and tap the gas extremely lightly in order for it not to race that high. I got the issue fixed and it ended up being both the shift solenoid and transmission control module. Since the issue got fixed, I don't drive the car as much as I used to being I live on campus at my school. The car ran perfectly fine for about 3 months or so (idiling where it should be, shifting when it should, etc.) and then it started up with the issue i'm having now, which seems close to the issue i was having previous with the shifting issues. Would it be something having to do with either two again?
Also, I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but when i'm doing about 75/80 on my local highway, my RPM's are at about 2800 to 3 grand (and stay steady the entire time i'm doing that speed)...when my car first got fixed with the shifting issue the first time, I don't recall it being that high when i would do that speed, but I could be wrong. Should it be this way?
My check engine light comes on, and when i run codes on it, all that comes up is for the evaporative purge solenoid (which i've known about). I was told that the two issues aren't related but would the evap purge solenoid have someting to do with the way my car is shifting?
Please Help Me With Suggestions If You Can, Or If You've Had An Issue Like This Also!!* (even if it's with only one thing). It's been like this for a few months now and it just doesn't seem normal to me, I want to diagnose it if possible so I can get it fixed because no one else, including myself can think of what it might be.
Posted by xoxallisax... on
Here's what I found one my old 95' neon. On top of where the shifter linkage attaches to transmission is another half moon shaped (if i remember correctly) linkage that control the throttle valve operation, for kickdown etc for passing. Mine would seize up occasionally from the weather etc & it would hang in lower gear forever before shifting up, then shift down hard when stopping. It even made my gas pedal stiffer to push. It's hard to see it without removing some things out of the way on drivers side. Anyway, that little piece on top of shift linkage has to move very freely. When you get to it, spray it with lots of penetrating lube like WD-40 and shaft it sits on top of & keep working it by hand until you can move it all the way, both ways, easily. Then apply a good coat of white lithium grease or similar to keep it lubed up. I had to do mine about 3 times in 5 years. Give it a try & let me know. I do have a picture somewhere of what /where it is, so if your stuck or not sure, let me know and I'll see if I still have it.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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