20 Most Recent 2001 GMC Jimmy - Page 4 Questions & Answers

It might have a blown fuse or a burned out dashboard lightbulb. Check the fuses first.

disregard the oil pump and pick-up because if there were problems there you would not have oil pressure at all explain the term "pecking" and when it is occurring. Under acceleration ,at idle , driving normal, at speed.

On the abs you have a sensor on every wheel bearing some ontop of the rear end the best way is to use a scanner the only way it will tell you what code then Google it you find the ans. Also you have an abs module but like I said you won't know unless u use a scanner give me the trouble code I try to help you without a code your working blind

Check to see if there is a trouble code stored in the computer. Don't disconnect the battery.

Check the vacuum hoses, and the intake manifold gasket for a leak.

Wiggle the steering wheel while you pull on the key.

Try another key.

The switch might be defective. Do they unlock? If not then check the fuse.

Check the fuse.

It sounds like it could be the control panel or the A/C And Heater Control Calibration you can give this info to your mechanic... but if i were you i would go to gm dealer.replacing the wrong part will get expensive fast..... hopes this helps you..........................................A/C And Heater Control Calibration
Re-Calibrating Actuators (Primary)
When replacing the HVAC control module it will be necessary to allow the HVAC control module to perform a calibration process. When installing the HVAC control module be sure to perform the following:Important: Do not adjust any controls on the HVAC control module while the HVAC control module is self-calibrating. If interrupted, improper HVAC performance will result.

1. Place the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the scan tool.
3. Install the HVAC control module.
4. Connect all previously disconnected components.
5. Start the vehicle.
6. Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control module to self-calibrate.
7. Verify that no DTCs have set as current DTCs.

When replacing the HVAC actuator it will be necessary to allow the HVAC control module to perform a calibration process. When installing the HVAC actuator be sure to perform one of the following:Important: Do not adjust any controls on the HVAC control module while the HVAC control module is self-calibrating. If interrupted improper HVAC performance will result.
Alternate Method (W/O Scan Tool)

1. Clear all DTCs.
2. Place the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Install the HVAC actuator.
4. Connect all previously disconnected components.
5. Remove the HVAC B fuse for a minimum of 10 seconds.
6. Install the HVAC B fuse.
7. Start the vehicle.
8. Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control module to self-calibrate.
9. Verify that no DTCs have set as current DTCs.

Preferred Method (W/ Scan Tool)

1. Clear all DTCs.
2. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position.
3. Install the HVAC actuator.
4. Connect all previously disconnected components.
5. Start the vehicle.
6. With the scan tool, initiate the Motor Re-calibration feature of the Heating and Air Conditioning Special Functions menu.
7. Verify that no DTCs have set as current DTCs.

Tough question. When faced with such I usually try to find an illustrated parts breakdown somewhere online. Some parts vendors have good pictures as part of their sales materials. Also possible that the dealer has a good picture, and they are usually willing to print you a copy.

Most parking brake pedals work with a dog and pawl , much like a row of saw type teeth that have a small pivoting stop which catches in the teeth to lock down the pedal. If the pivot does not fully engage to teeth because of dirt or rust the pedal will return to its original position. This may also happen if the release cable in not fully returning. You can try pushing on the release handle rather than pulling and see if your pedal now locks in place. You can lube these parts with a can of spray lithium grease but be sure to protect your carpet and pedals so they do not get stained or become slippery. Mask areas off with newspaper or cardboard. Work the pedal and release cable a few times. It will usually free up any binding parts. I hope this helps!

check for blown fuse. if its all ok, then check then check the fuel presure

You have to remove the screws from the air box and remove the air box than the washer Bottle should have one bolt on top and one on bottom also remove the 2 hoses they just slide out and un clip the plug on the pump

drain the oil pan and look for piece of metal. could be head gasket or engine block defect or blown engine. make a few check remove belt and try to turn crankshaft with Tools if not remove engine oil pan you will see the damage hope it helps

The exhaust push rods are longer than the intake need I say more?

We'll if your taking a long trip I think for safety reasons remove the drive shaft put a plastic around the back York of the transmission with a big rubber ban or black tape then replace it what you get there because if the trans kits in to gear while the drive shaft is on you could burn it nor worth it it's easy to remove 4 bolts good luck

If your doing it on the ground, with a half or full tank. About five hours, if you know what your doing. otherwise, look at 8 to ten hours. On the ground. With a lift and jacks, you can do it in about 2 hours. Again, if you know what your doing.