20 Most Recent 2003 Mazda MX-5 Miata Questions & Answers

The cap can be at fault can happen any time check radiator every week . Have the cap and radiator pressure tested ,the car is 11 years old change all heater and radiator hoses.

The new top was not fitted incorrectly would be my guess here with out seeing the problem first hand.

What's a roof fuser? Please elaborate. All I can think of is a Variable Air Volume diffusion damper that open and close to regulate air flow into the room in response to room temperature. I have a 1999 and I'm sure mine doesn't have that. Not sure how different the 2000 Miata is.

There are several engine cleaner products that come in a spray can that can be purchased at auto parts stores. Pay close attention to the directions as some are not recommend to spray directly on electrical parts. They do a good job if left for proper soak time.

I just had the same problem. I bought a 04 Miata 2 days ago that had just had an oil change. When I checked the oil yesterday and nothing registered on the stick. Then today I noticed some oil on the driveway. I looked at the oil filter with the engine running and saw the leak. There is an oil cooler pick up cylinder is between the oil filter and the block. with the oil filter removed, there is a nut that is not a locking nut which can back off. I took the nut off, cleaned the rubber seal ring between the cylinder and the engine block. I put everthing back together and no more leak. If the seal ring is damaged, it costs $12 ( I Priced one today but didn't need it. This may be the problem you are having.

try this link....you can also use a test light instead of an ammeter to see which circuit is draining the battery:
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

(Posted as a comment above, but I realized it should probably be posted as a solution instead. Apologies for the double post.)

I had the exact same issue just in the last month with my 2003 Miata. Cruising along fine on a hot day on the interstate, when suddenly the engine just choked and sputtered and lost power. Both times, I was able to restart within 10 minutes and just drive away as if it had never happened.

SOLUTION: It seems to have had everything to do with a few of the electrical sensors. First time around, the CrankShaft Position Sensor had gone bad, so I had that replaced. Apparently, that sensor works in tandem with the CamShaft Position Sensor, as that sensor went bad only a couple of weeks later and caused the same problem.

VARIABLE: although my mechanic didn't think it was DIRECTLY responsible, my check engine light has been on for a few months because I needed to replace the Rear Oxygen Sensor, and I had been ignoring it due to budget. BUT, there is always that chance that this sensor was affecting the others as well. Bit the bullet and replaced it this time.

The verdict is out on whether or not this solution will last, but historically my mechanic has been very reliable.

Have it put on a car lift and inspected is all i can suggest.

on the highway you have air flow threw the raid on side roads no air speed is the fan turning on?