1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

No way to do this, the alternator is not made/engineered to use an off alternator external voltage regulator. Why would you need to do this?

one and the same

Non working turn signals will not drain the battery because they work when the key is on. You may have a bad battery. If your signal lights come on and do not flash, you have a bad flasher which should be located under the dash area. As for the battery, most parts houses will check the condition of the new battery for free. If you think you have a bad battery, make sure that it has a good charge then disconnect it from the system by disconnection one of the cables. If the battery goes dead overnight then it is self draining.

this should be the one.

Both switches are simple on/off, so you can test with an ohmmeter or just bypass with a paper clip. See your diagram at the link below. http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=17528

It's on the right front corner of the engine comp. Then there is the one under the rear seat and the one on the drivers on the bottom of the door pillar (a-pillar).

Hope that helps

Your master switch is stuck in the running position and need to be replaced. Very simple to do. The reason your battery is running down is the switch is constantly activated and draining the system. Once you replace the switch everything will be good

These cars were designed to have daytime running lights, that can turn off with the ebrake being pulled, so perhaps whatever wiring mechanism that enable that, is failing.

Squeeze or slide the cover off . And the bulb will be attached at both ends , just grab at the center and pull it toward you !

It maybe tripped already , inspect the catch !

Alarm maybe set !

If there 8MM bolts then the torque is 16FT.LBS if there 6 MM bolts then the torque is 8.5 FT.LBS

will need to remove door panel to inspect the lock rods ,clips and actuator ,,what usually happens is one of the lock rods either pops out of clip or clip breaks

1997 thru 1999 are the only interchangeable alt.

The fan should work off of the water temp. The fan will come on and off to keep the constant temp on the cooling water. If equipped with a second fan it is probably for the AC and will run when the A/C is on. If you think the fan should be on. Then If you know where the fan relay is check to see if it is hot, if real hot the relay may be going bad. Hope you know this when you turn the car off the fan can still come on if the water temp is to high. My thought fan going bad, temp sensor or relay may be the problem.. If you can touch the fan motor metal housing and it is real hot the fan man be going bad, remember the blades can start at any time.

Cooling Fan Relay No. 1 Center rear of engine compartment, left of the windshield wiper motor 7 - COOLING FAN #2 Relay 8 - COOLING FAN #3 Relay High Speed Cooling Fan Relay #3 9 - COOLING FAN Fuse 60A Cooling Fan Relay #1, Cooling Fan Relay #2

In the engine compartment fuse block. Look at positions 7 and 8. There should be a diagram under the lid.

Then you have two possibilities. First, most likely. Wires have broken. Open the drivers door and at the front you will see a rubber boot from the frame to the door. This is where the wires like to break. Second would be the master switch failed. I have replaced one or two(in 30 years) that the switch completely died. Usually just one or two windows quit working.

did you check the fuses?

Most likely you have a lifted ground wire(one that is not getting connectivity to the metal of the car). Go back and look at fuses(assuming you have already ruled this out) and then look for a wire chassis that connects to your fuse panel(s). Check the harness at the lighting control module(big box above the passenger kick panel) and re-seat it. I had a really similar issue with my '05 Pontiac Grand Am and it turned out to be the wire chassis harness not being properly grounded. Most of the time it is as simple as just tightening the harness housing back down that can fix this issue. If you have already exhausted all of these methods then it would be best to let a service technician look at it. I know the cost is between $500-$700. If you want to DIY then grab a very high concentrated Isopropyl rubbing alcohol(70% or higher as it leaves no residue) and clean all of the points with cotton tipped cleaners(Q-Tips). Make sure you unhook the battery prior to beginning this work. A good spark could fry your internals and also cause the high concentration rubbing alcohol to ignite. It's not combustible via fumes but burns bluish-white so it is very hot and needs to be used with EXTREME caution. Hope this helps.