2006 Chevrolet Express - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Could also be an ignition problem. A mechanic would check the fuel pump relay to see if it is powering the pump, and then check fuel pressure with a gauge.

Insure that the 20 amp fuse is the correct size. Might it be shown to use a 30? Otherwise, when compressor was replaced, was drier, orifice tube replaced and proper amount of oil added?

If the ignition coil, crank sensor,ignition ,module ,cap and rotor are new then possibly a bad pick up coil inside the distributor bad ignition coil wire from dist. to coil or missing power supply

Hi Frederick: I'd be suspicious of timing, like maybe just a bit too advanced. Possible cause could be a vacuum leak. Does it have a vacuum pot on the distributor? If so, make sure it is working properly. If it is stuck, the timing will not retard under low vacuum, making your engine feel sorry for itself.

vehicle must be take to the dealer if you don't have the ignition key with the chip on it

by the oil filter housing

bad starter relay

bad bulb

You can't !! Most of the time there is a module under the sofa, that get corroded you have to by pass the module and motor wires, if the motor still working bed would let down other wise motor and module must be replace it

Under the brake master cylinder.

It is on the inside fuse panel. But it isn't a fuse. It is a circuit breaker. It has a metal wrap on it, about 1 inch long and 1/4 inch wide. Fuses are plastic.

You didn't specify which engine you have. So I listed available engines here - 4.3L and the 4.8,5.3,6.0L Gas motors have a minimum spec of 6psi at 1000rpm and 18psi at 2000rpm, and the 6.6L diesel has a 7psi idle and 28psi at 1800rpm. That being said - 20 psi is good. 20-40 is usually a good number at idle - it will move up the engine speed.

sounds like cylinders are full of diesel you need to pull injectors to relieve pressure on cylinder.. it causes it to lock the engine up .. you might have left the key on with a leaking injector and filled the cylinder with diesel and then it would lock you engine.

probably needs a new switch then

Check all fuses again. Make sure your wire isnt touching anything it shouldnt. Remove negative battery cable. wait a few minutes. reattach cable, restart & go from there

sounds like a faulty column switch

Given that you have replaced the entire cranking system except the battery cables... I would put money on what Christopher said. You can do a voltage drop test to prove it if you have a DVOM. When it gets that cold it requires a lot of extra amperage to turn the starter. if you have a bad cable (corrosion inside the insulation is not un common) it can't pass the necessary amperage. Either cable of both can cause this problem. If you're in on of those places where it is all of a sudden like the North pole but doesn't normaly get that cold you may have had this problem all the while but didn't know it.

After the problem is fixed, you would need to clear the code with a code reader or scanner to turn the light off.

Should have ordered it with power steering.

fine the reset switch !may be it the trunk,