Top 10 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse Questions & Answers

In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this guide.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

• If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
• Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
• Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
• After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
• If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
• When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
• Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
• After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
• After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined in this guide.

The following procedure can be used on all vehicles. Slight variations may occur due to extra connections, etc., but the basic procedure covers all models.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
4. Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
5. Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler.
6. If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case.
7. Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
8. If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
9. Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
10. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
11. Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.

To install:

1. Install the engine and secure in position. The front lower mount through-bolt nut should not be tigthened until the full weight of the engine is on the mount.
   1. Tigthen the engine mount bolts as specified in the engine torque chart, located in this section.
2. Install the exhaust pipe, power steering pump and A/C compressor.
3. Checking the tags installed during removal, reconnect all electrical and vacuum connections.
4. Install the transaxle to the vehicle and tighten the upper mounting bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (90 Nm). Install the starter assembly and tighten both mounting bolts to 54-65 ft. lbs. (75-90 Nm).
5. Install the radiator assembly and intercooler.
6. Install the air cleaner assembly. Install all control brackets, if not already done.
7. Fill the engine with the proper amount of engine oil. Connect the negative battery cable.
8. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks.
9. Check the ignition timing and adjust, if necessary.
10. Install the hood making sure to align the matchmarks made during disassembly.
11. Road test the vehicle and check all functions for proper operation.

under hood, center, upper engine area, mounted on upper driver side of engine.

Hello, there isn't a speedometer cable on these cars. If this is a non turbo model the speed sensor is on the back of the transmission. The easiest way to get to it is to remove the battery, battery tray, and intake tubing from air filter to intake manifold. Once all that is out of the way if you take a light and look on top of the differential ( on these cars it is the back of the transmission towards the firewall). You will be able to see it better with a flash light. If I recall right it is a tall electronic sensor that is held in with a 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt and carefully pull staight up. When it comes out of the transmission there will be a shaft and a small plastic gear on the bottom of the sensor. That is how it reads your speed. To install a new one reverse the process. Make sure to work the new sensor in carefully, don't force, to give the teeth on the gear to align.

I'm assuming that you're asking how to make the car faster with bolt-on modifications.

1. Buy a cold air intake. Preferrably one that puts the actual filter in the fender well. That will help to bring in cooler air, making the air/fuel mixture more dense= better combustion(more power)

2. Exhaust. I'd start with a cat-back exhaust system. They are usually found pretty cheap on ebay. That will help with finding some higher rpm power, and since it starts after the catalyctic converter, it's legal. You might also look into some equal-length headers.

3. Underdrive pulleys. These help lose weight on the rotating assembly of the engine. That will help your engine rev quicker and get you into the RPMs where you make power.

Those will be the easiest for making bolt-on power. If you were to get deeper into the engine there would be better ways to make power; such as cams, forged pistons, nitrous, turbos, etc.

Once you start making some power, you'll probably also want to look into ways to make sure it's getting put to the ground. I would suggest getting a heavier clutch and a lightened flywheel. The heavier clutch would hold more power and the lighter flywheel would allow the car to rev up faster, allowing you to get into the power quicker.

would this sensor make the car not start when it is hot?

your fuel pump relay is located next to the Master Cylinder,
you have three relay the close to the master cylinder is your fuel pump relay.

Let me know

p1750 is a Manufacturer Control Transmission. i work at advance auto parts and we get these codes in from time to time. what i tell people is alot of times it is infact your solenoid box assemble is going. what that does is to tell your transmission when to shift into gears. im assuming your car is having a hard time shifting gears. to replace that part your looking to spend about 200 to 500 with parts and labor. unless you want to do the job yourself. than if im right it should run you between 150 to 200 for the part.

COULD U PLEASE TELL ME WOT NUMBER FUSE THE HEATER IS PEUGOET 406 P REG

first the cam sensor shouldn't be upside down from the 95. they both should be with the plug facing down. they 95 CAS has a different plug than the 99 CAS.
the 95 has round pins and the 99 has flat pins.

95-96

--------------------
97-99

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also the 95-96 relays are opposite the 97-99

95-96

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97-99

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besides that it could be the ecu. i also have heard of the locating pin on the intake cam shearing off, allowing the gear to turn with the timing belt without the actual camshaft spinning.

If you have the 4-Cylinder Non-Turbo, or 420a engine, here is the overhaul manual for it, including the complete timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?7j2zosdmnnl

If you have the 4-Cylinder Turbo, or 4G63 engine, here is the manual for it, including timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?zhnttihoqye

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514