20 Most Recent 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Relay, switch, fuse or the motor is bad. Check fuse first, then relay, then switch. If all that fails, try the blower motor

The torque converter is in the front of the transmission.In the front of the trans.You need to remove the trans.to get to it.Depending on the problem your having.There are a few parts involved in the torque converter.You can try googling torque converter and you will get an idea of what is involved. Hope this helps.Good luck.

The transmission is probably WAY overfilled. If you are trying to "check" or "top-off" the fluid level by removing the FILL/VENT CAP and looking in, then that is most likely the case.The fluid is checked on that transmission by placing the vehicle on a hoist and removing the CHECK PLUG with the engine running. The fluid should just barely dribble out from the check plug when it is checked. Please note from the diagram below, that the check plug is UNDER the vehicle iand is WAY below the FILL/VENT CAP.

two screws in bottom of panel and one behind the trim panel of the inside door handle. lift the panelfrom the bottom ( up not out) may need to pull out slightly at door handle. panel should slide off.

Some public libraries have "Mitchel" Sevice trade manuals for each model year. These are the best ones to look at for specific and complete information.Otherwise you are dependent upon the brick and mortar bookstores or the bitorrents.

take to autozone and let them check and clear the codes for you. They will do this for free.

There's a tool that looks like a fork with two prong's, You slide in between the panil to pop out the plastic rivits, If yopu go to autozone they will let you use one for free. While your there you might buy a few of them clips your poping off. There easy to bend and go back in.

Replace fuse under the back seat. Look in your manual, look in the fuse section and it will tell you which fuse it is exactly

Check for loose wires to the ABS module and have the module checked. This could be a bad Caliper but it sounds like it is the ABS module malfunctioning.

Hello, Here is the diagram you requested.


regards, Tony

The system may have an air pocket in it. I remember the Toyota 3000 V6 were great for doing that. Look for a heater hose or something high on the motor that you can pull off to fill with more coolant.
If its not an air pocket then the thermostat could be stuck or the electic fan not coming on.

I had the same problem and followed these instructions which I copied from Automotiveforums.com. It worked great for me, hope it works for you!

Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

Your problems remind me of the time I forgot one last wire when changing engines on a Chevy pickup and I pulled it in two. It was a ground strap from the frame to engine which I didn't see in my haste to the get the job done. After the engine swap and everything was up and running the fuel guage would read full, then empty, then full again. Gauges in unision would peg right and then in left directions. Heater would set it self, and the radio. I was convinced it was possessed.

The farmer I was doing the work for spotted the broken ground strap and wanted that soldered back together as he knew I had a very good soldering iron to do that with. When I finished with the solder, the poltergeists were gone and have not returned. I would suggest you have a missing or loose ground strap somewhere. It might be stuck in your shifter works making it not act normal as well.

Have you checked the fan clutch, thermostat or water pump?

NO-NO-NO-NO NO

If you have to use stop leak drain out some coolant and remove the upper rad hose and poor it down there. IF you put it in the reservoir it will sit there and stop the return. You will think it is full and your system will be empty.

If you have 4.0 you may have a head gasket leaking. If it is running ok and you are loosing coolant contact me back and I will tell you a good fix that works

Normally, it means either the front or the rear bulb is burned out. If front and rear bulbs are good, and that means both lamp filaments in both bulbs are good. It could be the flasher, a bad ground, a bad bulb socket, or the turn signal switch.