Top 10 1996 Volkswagen Jetta Questions & Answers

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1996 Volkswagon Jetta Timing Belt replacement Procedure

I'm looking for the timing marks for the replacement of the timing belt. I've locked the cam shaft, and the injection pump. Now i need to know where the crankshaft gear needs to be

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there are 3 thing need to be fixed first the top timing belt pully should be between o.t so should be on . between o.t and secondremove the distrubuter cap it should be one mark 1 which is pointing on block and 3rd is crank shaft should adjust on 0 which you will find on the gearbox there is a green ruber cap remoce it and turn the main crank shaft u will find mark on the frywheel 0.
Thats it

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

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vw jetta is overheating

vw jetta is overheating

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If your temp seems to come down when idle or at a stop, it is most likely the water pump.

VW has a known problem with the water pumps breaking. The plastic impeller on the water pump fails cracks.

Do not let your car overheat to the red line, once it beeps, turn it off. Other wise it can damage your engine. In fact watch the temp gauge, as you drive when it gets near the red line turn it off.
Turning your Heater on full will help to cool your engine.

My water pump made it to 84000 miles. I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg
At which time my timing belt, thermostat and water pump was all replaced. This saves on labor.
The water pump is driven off the timing belt. So while they are in there get that done.

Your owner’s manual has a Maintenance schedule list, your timing belt should be replaced at something like 60000 miles or so, I am not exactly sure of service schedule as I do not have it in front of me. If your getting your timing belt done, get your water pump replaced to. It will fail eventually.

As for over heating?
When is it over heating?
If you read the Owners manual it clearly states in there these cars run hot, do not let it idle for a long period of time. In the middle of summer in Fl, while sitting idle for long periods of time in traffic with the air conditioning on, my car will over heat a bit. This is normal.
Most people like to start their cars and let them warm up, this car you don’t let it warm up, and again the owner’s manual has this in it.

As for coolant, do not use water or green anti freeze, use G12 (it is red, pinkish) which you can find at Napa, or a Mercedes, VW dealership, in a pinch to top off the coolant you can use Dex Cool, not ideal but it works as G12 is not easily found at wal mart or AutoZone type places, I couldn’t find it there? The people at AutoZone told me Dex Cool is the same as G12, my mechanic says it is not the same. Close but not the same. It will do to top off the coolant.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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speedometer, tachometer, fuel, and temp gauge not working

i have a 1996 vw jetta that i pulled dashboard out and replaced the heater core. When i put it all back together the instrument cluster worked for a minute then the gauges stopped working but the digital odometer and clock work. The gauge lights flickered but when i tapped the pod they came on and stayed. I think i might have dropped the cluster pod when pulling it out but it didn't drop that far, and i don't know if theres a fuse and if there is i don't know it's location or dropping it damaged it.

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Take out the pc board and examine the copper traces. On my '94 Jetta I found one corroded trace that disabled the the same functions. I had to solder a wire to fix the connection. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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oil cooler seal

I have a 96 Jetta (Trek) the seal between the oil filter bracket and the oil cooler is leaking, ( im talking about the cooler block between the filter and bracket. we can't tell how to separate the cooler from the bracket to replace the seal. We can see two allen key screws on top, and one in the back that goes into the engine block, but cant tell what else is holding the assembly together....

are there more screws underneath?

also what else will we need to disconnect to replace the seal?

we dont want to start taking it apart til we're sure we know what we're getting into, it just started snowing and we dont have a grage so we're trying to do the whole thing with one trip to the parts store.

thanks

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There are two items that can be leaking oil there. There is a gasket between the oiler cooler flange (the item attached to the engine), and the rubber gasket/seal that goes between the cooler and the flange. (the latter is the one that leaks most often as most oil change shops over tighten the oil filter).
I just replaced the gasket between the cooler and flange recently. I chose to do it quick and dirty: 1. remove oil filter 2. remove oil filter nipple (the portion you screw the filter onto) 2a. you'll need a deep well socket to get the bolt that holds the cooler tight (I believe 27mm)
2b. pull down the cooler, Grab the nipple with a pair of pliers between the flange and cooler and loosen/remove
3. remove old gasket/seal and clean surface 4. put new seal/gasket in place 5. re-seat the nipple back in. use the pliers method, just make sure you don't scar the threads where you NEED them( you don't need all of them). 6. put some gasket sealer (oil friendly) on the gasket and make sure its in place 7. tighten oil cooler onto flange with large nut and socket 8. replace oil filter and add oil as needed.
it is a tight working area, expect some scrapped knuckles, but it isn't too difficult.
good luck

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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96 jetta diagram of main fuse

if anyone could help me get a diagram of main fuse box please?

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Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Oil light/warning sound on Jetta after changing oil pressure sending unit switch

I have a 96 VW Jetta GL. It was leaking oil pretty heavily yesterday out of the sending unit. Replaced the switch on top of the sending unit. Today, when I drive the car, the oil light and warning sound come on after shifting into 3rd or 4th gear. When I shut it off and restart the car, it stops until I get the RPMS up again.

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my 95 vw jetta oil light is on and there is a beeping sound what might be wrong

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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Volkswagen 01M torque converter stuck

Recently rebuilt 01M transmission, 1996 Jetta. Replaced torque converter, valve body and solenoid cable, cooler, clutch plates and steel plates, pistons, etc. Torque converter was locked up prior to rebuild. Atributed converter sticking due to metal shavings from worn plates, this is what I was told... Torque converter is still locked up (over torques and stalls engine when shifted into gear, especially noticable in reverse). Confirmed lock-up is electronic by unplugging valve body (limp mode) and testing, converter releases, lock-up is not due to a sticking valve. Checked connectivity from ECM to valve body connector, no shorts or direct grounds found. Could the problem be with the ECM or the TCM? Is there any way to test?

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You have to be very careful with input shaft rings. They like to eat into the pump stater. Also always buy new vb don't buy rebuilt because they only work 2 out of 5 times. I know this for experience

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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VW transporter power problem

I have a 04 T5 130PS transporter and recently couldnt get over about 60MPH. other than that the engine seemed to be running normally. With the clutch depresed I could only rev it to 4000 RPM. After stoping for about 10 minutes and then setting off on the joirney again full power was resumed. No warning lights were visible. I have heard this could have been caused by failsafe mode. has anyone had similar problems or knows what happened.

Many thanks
Nick

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Hi nick. I have a T5 04 model and recently had the same problem. i was told it was a blown turbo so i had a friend look at it and turbo was fine. got vw to run a diagnostics and it had a broken wire running from the charge pressure meter. replaced for 9 euro. 3 weeks later same problem and it turned out to be a loose plug on the air mass meter. now its perfect again. apparently what happens is that if the engin management is getting a wrong reading from the pressure meter it limits the van to 40 horse power for fear of blowing the engine. whenever i switched the van off and back on the problem would fix itself but as time went on it got worse until complete failure. the wire is located under the coolant resivoir. dont know exactly where though. email me on [email protected] if you need to know more. if it does turn out to be the turbo (which i doubt) then there is a website called CRTurbos that seem to be the cheapest around. but i seen another forum where the turbos were replaced and the problem remained. I suggest first look at the charge pressure meter.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

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I need a 1996 jetta

I need a 1996 jetta volkswagon gl fuse box diagram

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This and other graphic details can find in Jettatech/techset

Hope helps.

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

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firing order diagram for 1970 volkswagen beetle

firing order diagram for 1970 volkswagen beetle

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Firing order is 1-4-3-2

cylinders are numbered:

Front
3 1
4 2
Rear

Posted on May 06, 2011

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