20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Impala - Page 8 Questions & Answers

below the hood there is a small lever that opens it. sometimes at the center, below the hood.

Rear Compartment Lid Release The rear compartment lid can be released by depressing the rear release button in the glove box or holding either front power door lock switch to the unlock position for a minimum of 2 seconds or by pressing the rear compartment release button on the key fob. The transmission must be in the PARK position for the rear compartment to release. No Key lock on the trunk ?

The 2006 Impala has 3 different motor options, on the 3.5 the map sensor is located on the rear(left side of motor) of the upper intake manifold under the black bracket that the spark plug wires are routed over. You have to remove the two upper intake manifold bolts to remove it. The bolts have a torque spec of 18 lb ft, and a small amount of thread locker is recommended by GM after reinstalling them.

Removal & Installation - AutoZone

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AutoZoneLincoln LS 2000-2005 ... If installing a new A/C compressor, the A/C clutch disc and hub , A/C ... If flushing of the air conditioning system has not been performed, recover the refrigerant. ... Remove the bolts and lower the A/C compressor. ... The torquespecifications of the A/C manifold and tube assembly-3.0L engine shown.

2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA 3.9L V6 Auto Parts - RockAuto

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RockAuto has parts for your 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA 3.9L V6 and all ... Who needs AutoZone or NAPA when all the parts your car will ever need are right here? ... 2006 CHEVROLET IMPALA 3.9L V6 Electrical-Connector Parts, A/C and .... IMPALA 3.9LV6 Suspension Parts, Ball Joint Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit Coil

Flat battery, charge or jump start, check alternator is charging properly!

as you have described it will be ok really it doesn't matter which hose goes where as it is just a heater that has water pumped through it from the pump

Only way to give you a "dead on" diagnosis would be to do some hands on testing. In general, overheating caused by a cylinder head gasket is accompanied by coolant loss out the tailpipe or into the engine oil. You can have the cooling system dye tested for hydrocarbons. . That would give you a definite answer as to the head gasket condition.
Flushing often is not effective in clearing a radiator. The chemicals that were used in the past have pretty much been banned. Radiator cores are not made from copper or brass either, so chems are generally too mild to work. Flushing simply cleans the core passages that are flowing and goes around the ones that are obstructed. Frontal area on modern vehicles is very small so radiators have very little margin for safety and once partially plugged, will give you problems.
If your electric fan is coming on when it should, and the hydrocarbon test shows no problems, take a second look at the radiator and go from there. Also make sure if the cooling system has bleed valves that all air has been purged.
As far as $2,000 for head gaskets, seems a bit high but if that's the going price in your area, I'd probably not do the job unless the remainder of the car is in exceptional condition.

For the do-it-yourselfer: To begin, some communities have pollution laws that would tell you you are in violation for this, unless you could catch every drop of coolant. If you did so, I do not know of anywhere you could legally dispose of it! :-( The coolant is poison to living things. However. If you left the engine thermostat in, flushing with a hose or whatever can take up to 20 minutes with the engine running and the radiator drain open. Removing the thermostat and reinstalling the thermostat housing where it fits causes the flush to take closer to 5 minutes. I'm sure you know all this flushing is to be done with the heater turned on, so you are flushing the heater as well. When you are finished with flushing, yes, you will have about half the flush water inside the engine block. You can add straight anti-freeze coolant to the radiator to blend them. You will need to run the motor about 10 minutes to get any trapped air out of the system, all the while watching the coolant level in the radiator. Remember to leave the heater on, because you get air-lock in the heater. God bless your efforts.

You need to reset codes with a scanner if trouble codes have been repaired.

Put heater on high heat to circulate water in those hoses and heater core. Then start the car after removing the radiator cap and filling with coolant to the top. When the radiator opens you will see the liquid level go down- add more coolant and keep adding till it stays full. Meanwhile fill the overflow to recommended level. When radiator level goes down no more, put radiator cap back on and let engine and coolant cool. If any more water is needed the vacuum created by the shrinking water will draw it in from the overflow.

in some cases you need to remove the front seats, thas allows you the room to get the headliner out threw the door without bending it to much

if it sounds like its in the dash then its probably the water in the cooling system moving through the heater core. make sure the cooling system is full and no air in system.

Here's a link to your belt. SAVE 20 ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE

None, the radio fuse is in the underhood fuse panel and should be labeled.

see an auto electrician if you cannot find out why....not a mechanic

If the key is out of the ignition and the direction flashers are in the neutral position.....the main light switch is in the off position then you may have a short/ electrical malfunction

Chevrolet Impala Problems & Complaints ...

www.chevroletproblems.com/Impala/ ChevroletProblems.com provides free information about Chevrolet Impala problems ... The worst model years for the Chevrolet Impala are shown below. ... 2011 Chevrolet Impala38 · 2010 Chevrolet Impala60 · 2009 Chevrolet Impala98 · 2008 ...

You can read all about your code here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0011 Most likely a P0011 DTC will result in one of the following: hard starting, poor idle, and/or stalling. There are potentially other symptoms as well. Of course, when trouble codes are set, the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, a.k.a. the check engine light) illuminates.

the noise is normal your maxing out the hydraulics in the lines [only does it when wheel is turned to max either way] the noise goes away when u release its max position