Top 20 2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class Questions & Answers

it could be a number of things. oil pressure switch, fuel pump relay or fuse. fuel pressure switch/regulator. something like this would help you find the fault https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-MB-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-UK/221097686022 just to read the fault codes.

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

could be the boost sensor in intercooler system,,, or turbo actuator sticking

indicates a fuel pump problem as that is the only thing in that area that is ignition controlled or possibly the EVAP system solenoid/ valve if it is in that area the frequency will be constant as the pump rpm is constant the noise could be a venting noise from the EVAP in in that area the distance of 15 km indicates that the problem is heat related as it take that long for something to over heat and cause the noise you may get an indicator by running the fault code

indications are that they are hard starting when cold indicates a problem ambient temp sensor or BARO sensor These sensors report to the ECM so that the correct air/fuel mixture is set for cold starting and running---sort of like the old fashioned choke pull have the fault codes read to determine where the faulty sensor is

Follow normal troubleshooting procedures. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Hi Tommy Parry, not totally sure on your problem but would suspect the heater core which is a radiator device inside the passenger compartment. The hot engine water is feed through the fire wall into the heater core when you select heat on the heater. either the heater core is leaking which is an expensive repair or the pipes maybe rubber pipes have a hole in them and checking them in the engine bay especially the hose clamps in the engine bay where the hoses are feed into the passenger compartment may be a starting point.

You may have a draw in the car. Will it jump start? Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Go to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and ask them to read the error codes. Then lookup those codes on the Internet or post them on https://mbworld.org/

The first thing you do is have the engine control module scanned for fault codes. I also suggest you buy a can of spray throttle valve cleaner and clean the throttle valve and the idle speed control valve.

• B1025 Component B48 (Front Passenger Seat Occupied and Child Seat Recognition) is faulty

Hi,becouse the lot isnt working I would say at a gess mind you that it could be a brake in the wireing loom,if there is it could be where it goes from the body into the door,you will have to take the door card off and get a screwdriver with a light in it with a wire and crocadile clip,and see if the light lights up when you put it to something that should have power when switched on and working,try the window motor first,if it dosnt have power see if there is power at the switch on the wire side to the window motor the falt wont be in the when window switch is prest if there is power then like I sied before ther must be a brake in the wire loom,if there is no power try checking for power on the other side off the window switch then the falt wont be in the loom,hope this was some help,all the best

Is their transmission fluid in their? Maybe a fault with the Transmission Control Board and Electronic Shift Module. may have to replace it.Sometimes the trans. leaks fluid on the module and ruins the circuits. If it's an auto transmission try If you have a late model c-class/clk and you can't shift it out of Park (P), try this... Open up the armrest/ storage compartment in the centre console, behind the gear shifter. Pull out the black liner thing at the front of the compartment. You should now see a hole in the front wall of the compartment where you just pulled the liner out. insert a suitably sized ***** driver until you feel it stop on something inside the hole. Now, grab the gear lever and pull it out of park while at the same time pushing the ***** driver against the thing that stopped it. This should activate the emergency release allowing you to drive the car but be warned, if you don't take the car to a garage to get the problem fixed then you will have to do this every time you want to drive the car.

Check and see if rear brake lights are not working. If not working brake pedal switch id defective. Do Not go to dealer for repair. The will charge you over $100 for diagnostics and over $200 to replace switch. Go to reliable parts store purchase after market switch for between $16 and $35. Go to a local mechanic and have him put it in for you, labor will be about 1/2 hour or less. There is a small "door" located near the gear shift indicator on the console. It is about as large as a standard ball point pen. Using a ball point pen, insert it through the spring loaded door and gently pushing straight down while pressing on the brake pedal, you can now move gear shift lever out of part into reverse, neutral or drive. You will need to repeat this process until you replace the brake pedal switch.

It is a body control module

No you need to have any key programming done by a dealer.

https://youtu.be/p02TOPwLlFc

I doubt there is one specific place. You need to remove the air from the system by allowing it to escape from the twists and turns of the system hoses. Most vehicles have a small bleed point or 2 at a high spot where you can let out the air. Trace the water system and loosen a hose at a high point. Run at idle. Don't fit the rad cap at this stage and only run when cool or cold. If you look in the header tank you can usually see a return flow of water. When the flow is steady run the engine long enough for the thermostat to start opening and be ready to top up the header tank. The level may fall suddenly when the air is pushed out of the heater system back to the tank. When the heater blower is pushing warm air check the tank level and fit the rad cap. Go for a run up to operating temp, come home, allow to cool until rad cap is safe to release, check level and top up if necc. Don't run the system at all without anti freeze to the correct percentage, usually 30% at least, or summer coolant mix if in the lower states.

pull the stereo unit out check the rear wires and the rear fuse some times there are 2 fuses 1 for unit its self and another for the amp if its still not working try another cheap radio if that works its the stereo if not there is something wrong with speakers probable worth just replacing head unit will work out cheaper

sounds like there might be a control module issue, might be the BCM.Alternatively, related to the same issue, it is possible your vehicle has gone into safe mode if the engine/transmission sensors have detected a potential problem it allows you only into first gear until the problem receives attention. You probably need to take it to a manufacturer's technician for electronic diagnosis I think