20 Most Recent 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT Questions & Answers

Does this car have its original ECU? I ask this because this and a number of early 1990s Mitsubishi cars/truckas had isses with capaciors leaking. In truth I believe it is a matter of when and not if. As the ECU begins to fail the engine can begin to run poorly ( I speak from experience after changing both ECUs in my Montero and my son's Doge Stealth (3000GT) ) I did have an issue too with my son's Stealth running poorly, by good luck I happened to be looking under the hood with poor lighting and noticed a faint blue spark from the wiring leads by the coil after a good look I fould a wire would ground out when the engine was throttled; this caused the engine to torque slightly causing the wire to rub and finally ground out.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Take off Drivers side wheel, remove plastic inner fenders (two pieces - one has six screws and the other is held in with two 12mm bolts - one is hidden up front behind the first plastic cover you remove). Relieve tension from A/C belt (slacken centre nut on tensioner and then using a 12mm ratchet wrench, crank the tensioner in), relieve tension on power steering belt (loosen both bracket bolts and then remove the outer bolt and slide pump up on the arm), place 22mm deep socket on crankshaft pulley and wedge breaker bar on the frame (to the front of the car) and then crank the engine to break the centre bolt. Relieve tension on Timing belt. Remove the crankshaft pulley and tensioner, the crankshaft sensor is located behind the crankshaft pulley. Installation is the reverse of removal, except you have to make sure you put the timing belt back on exactly where it came off (mark the belt and toothed pulley before you pull the belt off) AND you have to pop the tensioner back on so it has the same tension as when you started (the tensioner pops into itself and is spring loaded, held in place with pin/panel pin/small nail while you're working it. Good luck. If you are lost on this, or are asking this because you aren't handy under the hood, leave it to a garage, you will do major damage to your car if you mess up the timing.

Ok its an easy fix...do not pull the trans!!!

#1 Jack up your passenger side...ck the rear
#2 Pull wheel off
#3 you will see a cover approx 5 to 6 inches with a half a dozen bolts.
#4 Take that cover off...small pan under to catch a very little trans fld.
#5 Pull off the OD clutch assy. package
#6 Use a very small pic/ flat screw driver to to remove a 5 inch retaining ring.
#7 You will see a little larger that a 1 inch c type clip...wear glasses.
#8 Remove the pancake type piston and look at the O-ring it will be split/cracked/torn or nicked. When this happens your car will run fine in 3rd gear, but will act as if it came out of gear.
#9 You will need to get a seal kit to replace it.... $15-20 approx 45-60 minutes for the progect.
#10 be very careful when you re-insert the pancake into the clutch housing. Or...you will nick it !!! come in square.!!! Do not force!!.
#11 This next step was the hard part for me ...putting the c clip back on while keeping pressure on the pressure plate. Don't bend the clip and wear glasses.
#12 Place the od clutch package back on the transmission and replace cover.
Hope this helps...I've done 6 now..all doing great..going on 3 years.

Jim
#10 when you

I would like to give you just a small suggestion if you like,just to make you saving money . I believe you do have exhaust fitting stations. Why don't you drive your car to one of them,ask for advise and help? Just ask if they can remove your old exhaust pipes with the problem, measure and made new pipes to measure and fit them. I believe this will make you save money.

if you not experienced in differential repair take it to citified shop Fix It Right Differential Service

in the fuse panel on the driver side under the dash it is either round or square silver box

Drain al the fluid out and go to the dealer or call to find out what suitable substitute can be used usually dextron/mercron transmission fluid but call to confirm. You must now add fluid and run the car in reverse,drive for about ten minutes, drain the fluid and repeat this procedure one more time, you must purge all the fluid out to ensure you have no more incorrect fluid left in trans.

There's many causes for this, of course. If you've eliminated the obvious one (no fuel in tank) then I suggest checking for blown fuses. Is the fuel pump fuse ok?

May be easier that way...you may be able to get it out by supporting engine/transaxle assembly and removing the subframe to access oil pan then crankshaft. I would recommend removing the engine assembly thought

on a 1965 Volkswagen beetle?... or a 2014 Ford van... or a Chevy pickup truck? or....

Try going to your local Autozone store and ask them to check your vehicle for emissions and other engine problems. This is a free service. They will show you a print out of the probable causes of the problem you are having and the cost of the parts you need to fix your vehicle.

sounds like you may have a plugged up exhaust or catalytic converter. Try removing the o2 sensors from exhaust pipes and see if it runs better. If it was a timing issue it would idle bad.

Have you had your wheel bearings checked. With the front wheels straight, back up about 50 feet then pull forward about 50 feet. You will need to do this on level ground. Then from about 25 feet in front of and behind see if any of your wheels look like they are tilting in at the top. If so jack that wheel off the ground and see if it moves in and out at the top. If so its likley the wheel rubbing aginst the backing plate of your disk brakes. Let me know what you find

run fault codes to determine which sensor /servo is not working. Check the Transmission control module or OD servo for the fault.

unplug wire conection unscrew bolts that hold it on, use a marker to write numbers on the plug wires so you can put them back in the right order on the new part. unplug them put new one on with bolts plug in the wire harness and attach the plug wires.