1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hello Sarah, check your owners manual to locate the fuse/relay location (if there is one) and its rating. The problem must be isolated as the fuse is designed to protect components in the system so if there is a short or a electrical problem that is causing a fuse to blow..this problem must be located or you will just continue to blow fuses.

If your check engine light is flashing DO NOT even try to run the engine. Major damage could happen if it is flashing. Get it towed to a mechanic. I wish you the best of luck and hope you have not ruined it.

Boy O Boy, Don't throw that old trans away, It is most likely OK. Did you change the filter and fluid. A bad speed sensor or a bad torque converter lock-up solenoid will result in a loss of overdrive function. Perform an OBDII scan of the stored faults And look for Speed sensor and lock-up solenoid faults. Watch out for those shops, they will skin you.

Probably a bad solenoid in transmission.

FUEL FILTER SPARK PLUGS/WIRES AIR FILTER PVC VALVE

It sounds like it's a short

have to lash down rockers --- if proper lash done will have to look and make sure oil is getting to lifters

The lifters have not pumped up. How long have you let it run?

Incorrect grade of oil can cause this, however, at high mileage, like many other components, the ticking occurs due to wear & tear. The best is to replace the lifters

behind the radio, but you need to take the entire center display off.

run the fault codes to check that it is the problem . Cam position sensors have critical air gap measurements ---or prone to the air gap being contaminated with stuff and the rotor being loose or damaged

Is the Security light on? Could be too many things to list here. Step 1. Scan for codes. If no codes, see if it's losing spark or fuel or both. If it's losing fuel, it might be the pump or relay or wiring or computer. If no spark, it could be cam sensor or computer. Security light on means the key or anti-theft module has a problem. If equipped. Kind of what it sounds like, the computer shuts off the spark when the theft module does not detect the proper key chip.

How did you check fuses? Volt ohm meter? or visual. If visual, sometimes they look good, but actually are not. Otherwise, what preceded this symptom prior to or immediately prior to? I would try to connect this with the behavior before.

Using an OBD-II scanner, what diagnostic codes are you getting?

Lights ok? if not check Battery first, or connections to the battery. Fuel? Any warning lights before this happened? Any "clicks" when you turn the key to start? No clicks, no Battery. You may have a bad charging system as well. Are the fan belts all ok or do you have some missing (bare pully with no belt) Can you "jump" to get it started? but then dies? Charging system problem if the belts are ok.

under the hood in a black box

The sensor is a simple push button on the top of the clutch pedal frame. I don't recall if it's normally open or closed. I think it closes (ie grounds) when the pedal is depressed. In any case you can usually disconnect the wire and see if the starter will turn the engine.

I think you mean the head of a bolt that opens the ECU can is stripped. The only way is to use an angle grinder (or maybe a Dremel tool with grinder/cutting wheel) to remove the head. Once it off, the remaining bolt can usually be removed with long nose pliers.

Either battery is dead, or a fuse (70A?) in the main fuse box has blown. This is rare, but can happen. A major fault in the alternator, or the alternator harness can blow this fuse e.g the harness burns on the exhaust pipe and shorts to ground.

Blown fusible link or bad battery cable connections.