20 Most Recent 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

buyer be ware of sellers comments as to the fault have them take you to autozone or some other service that can read the fault codes and find out exactly what is the solenoid/servo that is the problem Advice is to pay the absolute minimum as you will have to pay for the repairs or walk on by to a better deal

You have to bleed it good and make sure there is no air in the system. Or you could also have a leaking slave cylinder.

Should be No Problem. Remember to keep the Jack under the Motor until you are finished with all Mounts.

you have a break problem take your car in and have it checked

SOUNDS LIKE SHIFT SOLINOIDS HAVE GONE BAD

The fuel filter and pump is all one unit that you can get to it under neath the back seatand the unit runs for $90.00 or more depending where you get it at. You could also spend less if you go under partsgeek.com. I also recommend when you do it that the car has a half a tank of gas or less. Best of luck and let me know hiw it turned out

fuse for heater is 30 amp and a 10 amp relay found behind a small removable panel in dash and also there is a 10 amp a/c fuse in fuse box under hood of car

have your vacume lines checked out i dont know why but if they arent hooked up right it will cause the light to work but you cant set any speed to hold.

Water probably got into some part of the electrical system and caused a short. Find someone with a computer code reader (if you can get the car to some store like AutoZone they have card readers available for free) and get the codes from the car's computer module. That will probably pinpoint the area you need to dry out and remove the short from.

Check all fuses and bulbs to ensure they are not blown, if all are good replace signal flasher. If signal flasher does not resolve issue, you will have to check wires for power going to and from signal switch, which may need replacing. below is a link to show what may be involved in replacing switch in similar vehicle. https://youtu.be/n_T4FDzYAAc

If the shifter moves freely when engine is off. Its possible that the clutch is not fully dis-engaging causing stiff gear changes. May be time for a clutch

use the door key or the remote to disarm system. then plug wire back up.

Best advice it to acquire a Chilton/Haynes repair manual that covers this year/make/model. It will tell you exactly where the mounts are, and any special tools you may need. These books are also chock full of pictures and diagrams. Not as simple as Dummies for VW Bugs, or How to keep Your Bug Alive. But they are adequate for most people to do simple to moderate repairs. Note: automatic transmissions should always go to a shop for any repair that entails cracking the case. A tranny service can be done with about the same ease as a motor oil change. But repair/rebuild of AT is best left to the AAMCO brethren.

Yes, but it's not recommended. If you have cooling issue, fix the cause, usually a blocked radiator. May be collapsed hose. Colling issues can also come from a blown head gasket.

Check indicator relay or check wiring harness plug at bottom of steering shaft hasnt come apart or wire broken wire and maybe get indicator lever checked

there's a regulator which adjusts the car rpm when ac is on
or it could be a vacuum hose check hoses

Check that there are no holes in the float. If the fuel is getting into the float, it will give a false reading. Another thing is to check the ground on the float sensor. If it's not connected tightly, it will create a false reading too.

my mitsi space wagon done the same thing was told all sorts from ecu to a reset button i stripped the car tested every thing and two months latter today my dad said try a tow bump start away we went on the 3rd bump she fired up ive gave her a run and now start ever time hope this helps