Top 20 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Questions & Answers

I got this free Pdf manual from reliable-store for free and I don't think Ive visited a mechanic or fixya for help for more than 3-4 times out of the 20 times I fixed the chipper in these 4 years

Looking at wiring diagrams for the electrical circuits of the affected system's ,getting out a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an then testing the affected systems electrical circuit's is how to diagnose these type problem's . Looking at wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in all these circuit's too . Having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's would be a very good idea , looking at wiring diagram's i see all the thing's your having problems with are control by ETACS - ECU control module . Suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop . You probably fried the computer . An new computers need to be programmed , that means dealer in most case's . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power lock's , power window's etc.... look at them . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Testing an not guessing is how to fix electrical problem's . ECM Inputs and Outputs Diagnosis

If you fitted a new battery which drained overnight, that points towards a discharge somewhere in the electrical system. The battery charge is finding its way to earth somewhere. One of the usual causes of battery discharge is a faulty alternator - the diodes in the rectifier pack (usually attached on the end of the alternator) burn out, allowing the current to run to earth. Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the alternator and charge your battery and let it stand overnight, with the alternator wires disconnected. If it starts ok in the morning, that's pointing towards a burnt out rectifier pack. Other causes of battery drain - well - they can be caused by anything in the electrical system including the instrument cluster. There will be sensors on the throttle body. Check the wiring on the sensors. If you're getting an error code that's suggesting you have a sensor problem. If the engine cranks but doesn't fire - it's a sensor at fault, usually. Though it could also be due to a broken or corroded wire to one of the sensors/ECU. If the engine doesn't crank that points towards an earthing problem. Check the battery cables for security and corrosion - particularly check the black earth cable where it attaches to the engine block.

There is an electrical short in the system. Have it checked by a professional.

Change your blower motor resistor,it's located next to the blower motor.

Step by step pictures to remove and replace

If you know about timing belt driven water pumps.. you know that you have to reset your timing on the engine. If you think you can. Tear it down.. replace the pump. And go onto the internet and find that engine and ask for timing marks.. reset them.. and all will be fine.. hope this helps.

The immobiliser works with a chip in the fob. This is a signalling device which, via a pick-up situated around the ignition lock, sends the signal to the engine computor which the allows the engine to be started.

Well that because something may be jammed in it try a powerful magnet and check if anything is in the key hole

check your lighter fuse if its blown that's it. phone charger outlet not working ?

rear axle removal on 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Google Search This should help

I provided this info to you in a previous post.

It could be a fueling problem like a weak pump or clogged fuel filter. The right way to check for that is to do a fuel pressure test. Many parts stores will rent or loan fuel pressure testers. If pressure is as specified by Mitsubishi, then you know the pump and filter is good, and the problem is somewhere else, possibly a Mass Airflow Sensor needs to be tested. Have you checked the air filter for being clean? If unsure about the fuel pressure test, have a friend do it that knows how. It is easy, just connect the tester, turn key to on, not start, and check pressure. It should be at specification, then start engine and check pressure again. If both readings are correct, the pump and pressure regulator and filter are all okay. Here is a how-to:http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator.

your anti theft device is activated,you need to lock and unlock your doors a couple times with the key fob,not the key,and then you need to put the key in the ignition and start it,if you dont have your key fob,call your car dealer to get a new one,they are programmed for each car only,you cannot bypass it.

1st i would make sure that it is indeed the calipers and not the stabilizer bar end links.the links should not make any noise if pulled on.there will be movement ,as they have ball joints in them but there should not be a clacking sound if you pull on the links. .Irritating suspension faults can also be found by hitting parts with a 2 lb rubber mallet. Also check the pad clips are in place or the pads could be rattling in the caliper.Worn slider pins can be replaced along with the bushing inserts..

You can buy slider pin bushing kits for the caliper.check that it is the caliper and not stabilizer bar end links rattling which is very common.

sounds like rear diff mount when tranny shifts and its worn it will thud pretty bad

Have you tried new fuel filters?.

could just be air trapped in factery thermostats have air hole after markets do not.so first let it coll down.then fill at radiator cap start up make sure fluid is moving probly alt of air intall cap park car on hill driver side up let run untill hot and repeat should get all the air out

You mean it cranks but won't start ? If the check engine light is not on when you turn the key on, the engine computer does not have power from a fuse, or the computer has failed.