Top 20 1993 Dodge Shadow Questions & Answers

Most of the cars I have had, the low pressure switch is on the dryer/accumulator. At any rate, your car should have a small diameter line which should be the high pressure side and a larger diameter line which should be the low pressure line. The low pressure switch should be on the larger line somewhere. I will tell you when I was not sure what I was looking for I would find out what the new part looks like, on computer or parts store and then you can identify the part when you see it. Some links below which may provide some help. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/dodge-shadow-1991-dodge-shadow-ac-blowing-hot-air-only-blowing-through https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/jump-a-low-pressure-switch/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMVtcaKRDDQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMi3VDkPdCo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UjfQKvrB6Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6_3et2sAG4&t=39s

you have a sensor some were not likeing the heat. they can go this way sometimes. you need to run diagnostics as the engine is warming up and have it set to view the engine as it warms up to find the problem. it could be a cam sensor as they prone to do this when they are hot then work fine when they are cool.

Check ignition and starter wiring, connections, fuses.

When you changed the motor and transmission, did you use the gearshift control assembly that came with the motor and transmission that you installed? Or did you do an exact match-up of motor for motor / transmission for transmission and re-use the original gearshift control assembly? Predicated that the transmission is used, like from a junk yard and had been sitting, it may be defective; or it's just a matter of readjusting the cables from the shifter control assembly to the crossover cables to the gear shift selector at the transmission. That model production year included a 5-speed manual w/OD transmission; 3-speed automatic; and a 4 speed auto w/OD. If you don't mind me asking what did you remove from the car?...and what did you replace it with?

shift cable out of adjustment

Check power to blower, if none check fuse if you have power plan on replacing tht blower motor.

Uses Trigger Wheel in Distributor and SMEC--NOTE: trigger wheel gets loose--can be reattached to locators rather than renewal of distributor

Check the codes again- there are only 2-digit codes. Code 13 is saying "MAP sensor is not detecting any change during self-test". It could be a bad MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure-the vacuum sensor for the engine), but sometimes it can be a wire harness problem. If a new or known-good Map sensor doesn't fix it, you will need a mechanic to check the MAP sensor circuit. Usually when an engine dies and won't restart, it is a gas or spark problem. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on with key in on, not start-it should turn on for about 2 seconds to put pressure in the fuel line and up to the engine. If the pump is working, next check for spark at a spark plug wire, with the engine being cranked over. If you have a blue, snapping spark, the ignition is probably good. If no spark, it could be a bad ignition coil, a bad Ignition Control Module, or possibly a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.

its located under the dash on the passenger side mounted to the air box. its round in shape where the motor is housed.

Should we guess to give you an answer! I think you realize ONLY some type of road test, talking to you & testing of the car, will give you the answer

the brake switch located at the top of the brake pedal arm

Robert Knorr: Check your Air Filter, may be clogged with oil or dirty. chocking off the air . idle is ok need less air. acceleration need more air , can't be done..bigAl

might but dont bet on it..

Sounds like the link between the lock cylinder and the switch is broke.

Those Chrysler engines in the late 80's and early 90's relied on a hall- effect coil located in the distributor and had alot of problems with them. What I would do first is, remove the coil wire at the coil an the dist. check the coil and dist. cap where the wire goes in and look for burning or cracks. If that is OK I would be inclined to think the hall-effect coil is bad.

check the ignition switch for voltage in and out, if the switch fails nothing will run except accessories that work with key off.

Does it overheat within a few minutes or does it take a while?Few minutes = thermostat is stuck, or low coolant, or broken beltTakes a while = need the radiator rodded out, cleaned. Low coolant, bad water pumpDoes it leak antifreeze?

There is a couple of things you can try.1. Check all connectors to and from the fan and thermostat.2. Check your fuses.3. Check there is power going to the connector to the fan with a multi-meter.If this fails contact an auto electrician for further assistance. I hope this helps.

What turns on the radiator fan is the engine coolant temp sensor. It is mounted in the block or the cyl head.