1995 Dodge Caravan - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hello and welcome to FixYa! If you have overheating problem, it can lead to multipleissues. You may be running on low coolant that's why the vehicle overheats. Ifthat's the case, please add coolant and make sure that it sits on the rightlevel, too much coolant can cause overheating too for coolant will overflow. The vehicle may have a faulty or worn out radiator blowermotor that's why it overheats. If that's the case then you will need a blowermotor replacement to resolve the issue. If the radiator is clogged with dirt and rusts this issueoccurs too. The coolant doesn't flow normally on the cooling system if it'sclogged. If that's the case, I strongly suggest that you have the radiatorflushed to drain out dirt and rusts. If you think that the radiator served youenough then it's better to have it replaced. Please do check the radiator hoses, If you have worn outhoses it can cause coolant leakage which can result to overheating. A tiny holeis good enough for the vehicle to overheat. A faulty thermostat sensor can cause the issue too. If youhave worn out thermostat, the fan may not trigger that's why the fan won't workwhen under stressed conditions. A blown radiator blower fuse can cause thisissue too so I suggest that you check the radiator blower fuse and replace itwhen necessary. What causes the radiator blower fan fuse to blow? It's becauseof a failing radiator blower motor, If that's the case have the radiator blowerfan motor replaced. If the fluid in radiator doesn't circulate then it meansthat you have a blown head gasket or a faulty water pump. I suggest that you gofor the water pump replacement first specially if you think that it's near theend of it's service life. Usually, water pops out the radiator when engine isreved (a sign of faulty water pump and possible blown head gasket). Hope you find this information helpful enough and thank youfor using FixYa! Have a good one!

try alldatadiy.com they have lots of sevice manuals

transmition reverse its bad ,it could be reverse sensors which eare inside transmition or gears,

HI. This will be the cause of coolant consumption that is occurring at this time. I will list the most common culprits below.

Coolant consumption::: Possible causes______


1. Check the head gaskets. The gasket may be leaking, thus allowing coolant to leak into the combustion chambers.

2. Check The Intake Manifold Gasket. This gasket may be leaking, worn, or damaged

3. Check the cylinder head for worn or scorn cylinder block.(This will require total breakdown of the engine)

4. Check the water pump seal for leaks as well.

Now that we have covered the basic check points for coolant consumption, i would advise to concentrate on the head gaskets if there are no apparent leaks on or around the engine itself. If the head gaskets are worn, the leak can be introduced to the engine internally, causing the engine to burn off the coolant. this is noticeable by removing the oil cap, after a hard drive. you Will notice steam that will escape the head as soon as you remove the cap. If this is the case, your problem will be with a failed head gasket.

IN a severe case, you will notice white plums of smoke escaping from the tail pipe during acceleration

3.3L & 3.8L

You would need to get a screw extraction kit otherwise known as an easy out. Check with your local parts dealer as they may offer one as a loaner

You have a bad brake caliper that could be sticking.

most of times stalling problems are related with crankshaft sensors have your crank sensor replace and see if this will take care of your problem

if you follow the brake pedal arm towards the fire wall,you will see a switch that the pedal moves,this is were the brake light switch is located.

This could only be a couple of things. I would recommend that you replace the thermostat, and flush the radiator. If the issue persist, then you may need a new radiator. Make sure that you use a 50/50 blend of antifreeze and water when you refill. When you flush the radiator, use some Prestone radiator flush, and follow the directions on the bottle.

The transmission will need to be removed to do this.The seal is rarely the leak,it is almost always the pump oring.This will require some tranmission skill and knowledge that i will be happy to share if you want to give it a try.

check engine with scantool for fault code

Tensioners are a sort of pulley that spins on a bearing that puts pressure/tension on a belt. Tensioners are recommended to be replaced about 50-60 K miles when doing routine belt service like a timing belt or serpentine belt. If they are not replaced the bearings can wear out and lock the tensioner and possibly break it.

I come across that sometimes, a NAPA parts store are willing to print out a schematic.If not you can go to a Chrysler dealership, thell be more than happy to help.

The transmission mount is located dirrectly under the transmission and above the transmission cross member.

Have you replaced the fuel filter (located along the fuel line from the tank, just ahead of the rear wheels)? Also, have you made sure that the fuel pump is properly grounded? Does the fuel gauge work? If you have a loose or bad ground on the tank, neither your fuel gauge nor your fuel pump will work properly.

Yes if the mount is not on the correct way it will cause problems like that and even kill the motor while driving down the road. When the van was made thay put one of the main wiring harness's under the motor mount that bolts to the block. When its comes loose or off it starts shorting out your motor. You will ether need to replace the bracket or bolts or both. Bolt size is a M10 1.5 its a 17mm head. Or they might be loose. Mount is located in the front of the van inbetween the motor and transmission. Hopes this helps

Lube Guard makes a friction modifier additive for transmission fluid that requires it. You can find it at major auto parts stores. Go to Lube Guard. com and check it out.

If you look up the shaft of the brake pedal you will see the switch attached to a plate with a little "button" on the end of it. This "button" opens when you press the brake pedal. Most of them are plastice that screw into the bracket. Unplug the switch so as you unscrew it to get the old one out the wires won't get tangled. It should come out quite easy. You replace with the new one in the reverse order. As you are srewing in the new one you continue to screw it in until the "button" that hit the brake pedal shaft is fully pushed in but not to much. Just enough to open and reliese with ease. There should be another clip or nut to put on the switch on the side where the brake pedal goes so it will remain in the same place to your adjustments. Remember to plug it back in. That is pretty much it. I hope this helped an good luck.

Many manufacters but a diagram on the back of the belt package if u dont have one i know most autoparts stores have a listing on belt routing. I prefer Advance Auto Parts if thier is one near by.