2000 Dodge Neon - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

could be maybe throw out bearing,,noise in motor,,,,little more info please

You might have a bad coil pack causing the engine to stall after it gets hot, I would start with changing the coil pack, good luck, Gary

Some times, all depends, sometimes it will not allow it to start but sometimes will, the reason for that is , the selector switch goes bad by getting the ****** gears messed up but the neutral safety part of the switch still operates,so again the engine can start with a bad selector and some times not

Now I got it. You need to replace the low pressure (return) side hose going from the firewall to the compressor. Have the freon removed from your system first, if there is any left. You have to remove all the hose tie downs. remove the bolts or nuts connecting the hose to the firewall. Disconnect the hose from the back of the compressor. Reverse the procedure to complete.

take the negative battery cable loose for 15 min.s and hook it back up this will reset some computer era's---make sure all other wires r connected in the area where the piece was installed

Here is the description for the code. You need to check the sensor and the wiring back to the computer.P0551 DODGE Description Power steering pressure (PSP) sensor is installed to the power steering high-pressure tube and detects a power steering load. This sensor is a potentiometer which transforms the power steering load into output voltage, and emits the voltage signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM controls the electric throttle control actuator and adjusts the throttle valve opening angle to increase the engine speed and adjusts the idle speed for the increased load. Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0551_dodge.html#ixzz21xtT1DTz

Those parts would not cause this code.

You are best suited to see a dealer service dept on this.

You will have to get an ATSG service manual online, atATSG.Com or the same at the local Trans Parts Wholesaler,the shops get their parts from.They should have what you needI think your going to have to pull the unit & open itup to do that,hope not. Not a job you will be able to do

It should turn off after a few minutes, watch it and see that it does.

Hi there:When the light comes on, one or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are stored in the engine control module. These DTCs remain even if the light goes out. To address a Check Engine Light problem, the DTCs are retrieved and the appropriate troubleshooting information is followed in order to determine the problem.The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do:* The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.* The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.* The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.* The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.Hope this helps.

Took to chrysler dealership and had dosnostics done on it.

thats why it is called a dodge

I would go and but a cam sensor from the dealer. Aftermarket cam sensors can be slightly irregular. I had this happen to me with an aftermarket ABS sensor on a chevy. The whole problem was a gap difference equal to two sheets of paper. Whats happening is there is an open circuit in your old sensor that causes the check engine light but the new one has a good circuit but bad reading. I would say that is your problem.

It sounds as if there is air trapped in the cooling system for part of the issue.I am inferring from what you have here is your engine temperature does go over 180 degrees but not over 215? Which also suggests air bubble.To try purge the system of air, install a flushing tee if you do not have one currently. Also park on a slope so the front of the engine is at the highest point Ideally with the upper heater hose at the highest point of all. The flushing tee must be in this hose that attaches to the engine at the highest point. Top up the coolant in the system so there will be expansion of the coolant to displace the air bubble. Start engine cold, and let it warm up as much as it will allow, and then raise the hose with the flushing tee so the tee is above the engine and carefully crack open the cap. As the engine warms up, the coolant expands and displaces the air that may be trapped in the head and heating system and allow it to purge until no more air is mixed in with coolant, that it is just coolant escaping. Tighten the cap. and that part should be remedied.The next thing to look at is the air temperature sensor that should be in the intake mainfold as it may be just out of acceptable range of resistance. Compare old to new for resistance value, you will likely see a difference with both at the same temperature.Also confirm which temp sensor you replaced because the gauge has it's own sending unit that can be out of range as well. If abnormal temps are still encountered, burp the system of air in the same manner as described. Some engines are better than others, but some can trap quite a bit of air, and it can go into solution in the coolant only to come out of solution later.Fuel mileage may be unrelated to the coolant issue. Check the line pressure of the fuel line. If you have the Throttle Body Injection, it is a high pressure system, but if it gets too high it cuts fuel mileage. Also consider how many miles are on the fuel injectors. TBI and port injectors have a limited service life of about 75000 miles.If your car has more than that- replace the injectors whether or not the pressure regulator needed to be addressed.That should correct a great deal of the excess fuel use issue.

Check arm attached to the pedal and see if there is a switch up there that is not getting pushed when pedal is all the way up.

Your head gasket is probably getting bad. They had a lot of problem with those on Neon's

could be a number of things. like the regulator for the altenator sticking. the memory on aftermarket radios could do it. Also amps if you have one.

Could be the emergency brake cable is frozen up for that side, and won't release.

Loosen the nuts on the P/S pump. Pull it tight, then tighten the nuts.