Top 10 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Questions & Answers

OK So, I have had to replace the blower resistor twice and its still has failed. Now its time to replace the blower motor. I have the Haynes manual for this vehicle but it seems to miss some important steps. Here's what I did, I hope it helps you. This job is given 3.5 hours on the shop book and believe me, its not a wonder why.
Tools that I used

- standard screwdrivers 6" with 1/4 blade and 8" with 1/2" blade
- 1/4 inch ratchet with 2" and 1" extensions
- 8mm socket
- 10 mm wrench
- Phillips S2
- drill with attachment for screwdrivers ( I have tendonitis)
- gooseneck extension (plastic / flexible)

Here are the instructions from the Haynes book with my comments and pictures.
One note is that the picture in section 3-8, fig 10-10 is upside down. The Actuator motor is on the bottom of the unit, looks
like a black deck of cards with a wire going to it. Wires at clipped to the housing.


2001 and later models

Step 8 - Disconnect battery negative cable - Wrench 10mm (1/2inch)

Step 9 - Partially remove instrument panel.... - remove glove compartment to access the blower and evap area. Two clips on
either side, unsnap hinges. ( remember to empty the box)

Step 10 - Disconnect pigtail from blower motor resistor. Green/Black wires

Step 11 - Remove 2 screws to remove actuator. (8mm socket) Remove wire from clips and pull down to remove the acuator. This
will buy you about 1/2 of extra space. Before you do all this, remove the side carpet trim which allows you to pull back the

carpet and the silencer padding. This will allow for some more room to pull the housing down and believe me, you'll need it!

Step 12 - Remove 2 more screws on the air intake and lower housing. I had three screws, you should see them through the
glove box.

Step 13 - Remove the 3 screws at the lower intake and lower evap housing.

Step 14 - Push rubber grommet through hole in lower housing. Use large blade screwdriver.

Step 15 - Remove lower intake housing from evap housing.
This is where it gets tricky.
You can remove the lower intake housing but you need to pry it out from the recirculation door.
The bottom of the unit where the actuator was has a round spindle that clips into place with the three plastic clips.
Lightly pry the lower clips and then also pry through the hole at the connection point. Picture below.
Once you pry it will release.
You will have to jiggle this loose but it will eventually come off.

with mine the recirc door POPPED out of its top rest. I had to make sure on how to get it into this spot as it doesn't stay in this spot.








Step 16 - Push wires through the hole if you haven't done so already.

Step 17 - Move recirc door about to help you reach the three screws that hold down the motor assembly.

Step 18 - GENTLY flex the door to remove the blower motor and wheel. I moved the motor 180 to help get into a better position.

Install is reverse. Need to make sure that the recirc door moves relatively easily. The calibration below will make sure all is set properly. If it doesnt pass you'll have to recheck the position of the recirc door top spindle and cavity line up.

Step 19 - Not in the book
18. Perform the heater-NC control calibration procedure:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
b. Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds.

The manual heater-A/C control Delay Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control

(ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
c. The calibration procedure should take less than three minutes to complete for the manual system, and less than twenty
seconds for the ATC system. When the LED's or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
d. If the LED's or graphics continue to flash beyond the time stated above, it indicates that the heater-A/C control system
has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use the DRBIII(R) scan tool and the appropriate
diagnostic information for further diagnosis.

Did you try checking the fuse? I had an issue with my power windows too, the windows themselves worked fine but the buttons on the driverside weren't working at all, ordered a replacement on Amazon for around $20 it was super easy to do and way cheaper!! My radio just started doing the same thing as yours so hoping it's either the fuse going bad or a wire issue (basically something cheap, easy, and something I can do instead of taking it to the dealership...)

Below the Brake Master Cylinder and slightly back towards the Fire Wall. Should have multiple brake lines running into it.
Hint: Most people want to replace these. Alot of times the connections are merely corroded or have build up on the conductors or in the conductor "pits". Clean both and check before going to the expense of replacing. I did and it worked and saved me $$ not having to replace.

Try in this Dodge Wiring 8W-10/8W-10-3

Hope helped (remember rated this help). Good luck.

Im going to assume that a mechanic has already checked for the most simple causes like making sure the brakes have been bled. If the abs module is faulty it will default to just a no abs state, but that wont cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor. I agree that replacing the caliper is probably gonna fix the problem, but I might try to bleed the brakes first and see if that solves it first...

One quick way is to take a close-up photo before you disassemble...always remember the shoe with the shortest pad length goes in the front known as the primary shoe and the shoe with the long
pad length goes in back ...the secondary shoe....label photo right and left side of vehicle......
Apply shoes in same position on each side....

obvious if you have a code to say it`s a squib circuit then you have had a scan tool hooked up to the car.does the airbag light come on only when the steering wheel is turned.if so then it`s a a good chance that it is the clock-spring in the steering colume could be damaged or dirty,either way only a qualified tech should handle this job as it is very dangerous to do your self.air bags have gone off just unhooking the wiring for the system or even connecting the wiring for the system and if you think you are fast enough to get out of the way then i hope your funeral is bought and paid for because it will be used. you only get one chance the do it no do overs

p1781 is manufacturer control transmission, p0731 is gear 1 ratio incorrect, p1784 is manufacturer control transmission, p0700 is trans, control system malfunction. all of these codes refer to tranny.This code normally points to a faulty transmission control module, but this is an expensive part and you should have an experienced Dodge technician diagnose the problem first. or a transmission specialist. the other codes are probably associated with the p0700 code. have a good day !

It's a internal issue servo or band broken

The 62TE requires +4 ATF. There
are many different blends of ATF that
meet the +4 requirement (markings for
+4 are clear on the labels).
Service Fill Level: 5.5 qts/5.2L
Total Unit Capacity: 9.0 qts/8.5L