20 Most Recent 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 5 Questions & Answers

hi , their is two different speed sensors on your vehicle one is the input speed sensor which is inside the transmission and the transmission will have to be removed to replace it the other one s the output speed sensor is located directly above the passenger side trans-axle shaft. your input sensor is the sensor which tells the transmission when to shift and the output speed sensor tells the speedometer what it should display and both those parts are fairly cheap they are around 15-25 dollars but just remember if your input speed sensor is bad it is gonna cost you a minimum of 1000 dollars to have a mechanic fix as the transmission needs to be removed hope this is what you needed

the 4,0l and the 4.6 northstar have the same problem with head gaskets,the head bolts strip or stretch in the aluminum block causing little compress of the head gaskets,the combustion pressure pushes past and enters the coolant.this air in the coolant builds up and pushes the antifreeze out causing an overheat situation.recommend head studs not head bolts..again gm missed the boat or did it on purpose to generate work for the dealerships...

spark plugs,fuel filter,battery can have V but no power.

I would say that you have two problems, 1st is most likely a loose belt for your power steering, and 2nd your light problem could be an alternator, not putting out enough charge, should be putting out around 13.6 volts at all times, I'd give these a try Dave.

My 1996 olds Aurora did the things yours is doing I replaced the fuel pump sensor myself for 7.00 or 8,00 dollars that solved the problem. That may help.It seemed to be acting like it was out of gas I hope this helps

could be a bad torque converter in the trans. if it drops out of lock up it will cause higher rpms will driving on the highway

drive shaft end couplings ,ignore till they start crunching in the straight ahead position ,No doubt the rubber covers are split of missing so strip the end off the shaft and put the end on a small bucket of diesel the tap the round ring down on one end so the ball bearing bearing comes out and repeat this till all 6 are out ,now twist the inner part so the arms are between to holes in the cage ,then turn this till it comes out now give it all a good clean and refit in reverse procedure ,but of grease in the bottom through the hole that the drive shaft goes into fit the new rubber boot over the drive shaft and the refit the coupling fit but more grease under the rubber ,refit the boot and job done .Its a easy job to do -MESSYAND MUCKY yes but a relativly simple job

The fuse should be in the fuse block in the engine compartment, Ther e is a relay all so that could be defective,, As for the coolent there is no release (Vavle ) for it,

Change the egr valve i just did it on my 1995 and it idles at 1000 rpm it was at 3000 at 1st
And clean out throttle body
If that doesnt work u most likely have a stuck throttle which usual doesnt happen

how many miles are on the vehicle? If the wires are the original, then it probably would not hurt to put some new ones on

If the engine cranks but won't start, the battery and starter are out of the picture.When it won't start, someone will need to check fuel pressure and for spark at the plugs to proceed.

The code P056 means "HO2S Heater Control Circuit(Bank 2 Sensor 2)hope it can help you!________________x-vci for ford

could be tcc clynoid

It can be a C-V joint or other suspension part. The reason for the brief sound is the slack in the joint until it jams into position. Jams being the keyword here. There are bearings and rollers in the joint. When they disentergrate, there is space. The bearing rollers pile up and JAM together so the C-V shaft turns. It can only work like this for a limited time, then come apart.Another possibility is a strut joint or balljoint. The weight shifts under acceleration and the part rocks in the loose fitting. It seizes into a driveable position, but only for a limited number of times under it lets loose.As you stated, "Like it is pulling itself apart" is pretty accurate for what is happening in the C-V joint.

Have the battery load tested, it sure sounds like you have a defective battery.

you need to replace the light switch. It is shorting in the mechanism itself not the wiring. I had the same issue. Just another GM engineering blunder