20 Most Recent 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Below 40, mine sits at about 25-30 at idle, but shoots right back up after gas pedal is applied.

Into the compressor-- where the hose assy bolts on Have to know how much is in the condensor,accumulator, evaporator also Can not just load up the compressor with oil Has to be the correct type oil & the correct amount

Unbolt it & take it off Remove the door panel, if you can't see the bolts

Is the security light on?? if so go to this site.. I seen your car is on the list for this issue! Hope it helps you!

It won't start. Have the battery checks and buy a new one if yours has a bad cell.

First you will need a multimeter. Then you will need to know how to use it. If you do have one and know how to use it then make sure to first disconnect one of the battery terminals. Once you do that set the meter to the ohm's position RX1 or whatever the lowest ohm's setting there is on that meter and put each lead on either side of the fuse. If you get no reading then the fuse is bad. However it blew for a reason and that may be a short circuit in the system. If the fuse looks like it is burnt on the inside then there is probably a short circuit. The next thing is to check the wire that brings power to the line side of the fuse. You will have to reconnect the battery terminal to see this. If there is power and the fuse is good then you need to check the door switch to the hatch door and it's wiring especially the terminals. If everything checks out OK then you probably have a defective power hatch door motor. All of this is kind of complicated if you are not familiar with automobile wiring or how to use a multimeter. Good luck, Marty

I've seen the weather stripping unattached at the top right where the door angles down to the fender. Use some weather stripping adhesive to reattach.

This happens when it gets plugged up. Replace the converter.

Depends on what the manufacturer calls for.. If you live in a really hot area use 10-30.. If its not so hot use 5- 30 oil.. I use Walmart oil in my own car and it has over 300000 miles on it.

1st things first, check your bulbs. If they are good, check fuses under the hood. Then go to the brake switch located way up on top of the brake pedal. Check the male connector that plugs into the white switch. The wire is kind of short, and will sometimes melt from all the movement. I chased my problem down for a month, was the male connector on top of the brake switch that burnt. May need to cut the connector off and buy a new one with pigtails and wire it back up with longer wires.

Are you ready for this?? It could be a brake shoe hanging up on one wheel, activating it. It could also be a front wheel bearing going out. They start to drag and will also activate ABS and the traction control. Check front bearings first if you have more than 100,000 miles on the vehicle with original bearings.

If it is a OEM system, manual reset procedure is in Owners Manual. If AFTERMARKET with no controller-system removal and wiring correction indicated.

The Battery light will be on since the engine is not running. The Light goes out when the Alternator is turning to produce the power required to run the electrical components for the vehicle. I would start with making sure you have a Good Ground for the Vehicle. It sounds like you have either a Fuel Delivery Issue or Ignition System Issue. Fire = Oxygen, Fuel, Spark. Take away any of these 3 and it will not run.

Blown bulb.