20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet S-10 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Have you checked spark plugs also check distributors lock down bolt might be loose and slipped out of time

any extra outlets would only be used depending on how your`` trailer is optioned.do you need a brake controller?do you have back-up light?do you need to charge a second battery?these would be the only reason to need the extra plugs.

Try this.Take a positive battery jumper cable and hook it directly to the big lug terminal on the starter solenoid that the cable hooks to from the battery.Take the negative jumper cable and hook it to a good steel, iron, or aluminum ground connection right by the starter, on the motor. Now try the key to start it.If it still says nothing, I'm thinking you have some wire harnesses unhooked from the rollover.Someone really good could take a little jumper wire and connect the tiny terminal on the starter solenoid (which goes to the key switch), to the positive battery cable, and that should make the starter work, hopefully.If it cranks with this direct application of power to the starter, be sure and check the "ground straps" between the motor and the frame. I think there are about 3 or 4.Some may have snapped.Be blessed.

need new plug wires, tune up. Not starting in the rain means...tune up time.

Sorry Ken, I have had that problem before on my 99 suburban and had to replace the heater core...Might check your thermostat first if you aren't getting any heat at all or very slight....Could also be an air bubble in your water line causing no heat to get through to cab...

It would have to be a short somewhere in the wiring.The pump gets power from the A.I.R. relay. The pump circuit is from a 30amp fuse that gets power from a 175amp main battery circuit.But the relay magnet is powered by a 10amp fuse from the ignition switch, and it is grounded by the computer to turn the relay on.Do I understand you to say pulling the relay or the 30amp AIR fuse will not kill the pump ?

Here's a guide.

is timing out.. when was last good tuneup..check all emission vacuum systems...repost finings..

you might want to pick up a haynes repair at your local auto parts store,it will tell you everything you need to know to fix your own vehichle

The heater core may be plugged. Remove the hoses on the heater core. Flush the heater core out with water.

Click here GW to see the torque and how to replace.

under battery is a vacum operated actuator that pulls your 4 wheel drive in to front axle.Make sure it has vacum going to it .Sometimes the actuator will get a hole in the rubber housing and 4 wheel will not engage.You could also check your vacum lines going to a canister on drivers side fender as sometimes the will come un-pluged and your actuator under battery will get novacum to it.If not it could be your actuator motor which is on the transfer case and is electric controlled and expencive300-400 dollars.Also could be a vacum line

On Chevrolet fuel injected vehicles holding the accelerator on the floor during cranking activates "clear flood mode " that turns the fuel injectors off the fact that it then starts tell me that the engine is flooded or the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor or circuit is telling the ecm the wrong temp several other causes are blown fuel pressure regulator, low fuel pump pressure, low compression or faulty coil pack

side of the block up near the oil filter single green wire with a white black oval shaped connector

Each mark (includes the hash mark) equals 10 degrees F

Clean wheel sensors on caliber. They are plugged in front hub. easy to find. Take off tire in front and follow the wire.