2005 Chevrolet Express - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like it might be a bad switch I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_54ae41aaaffbab00

Any chance the check engine light is on ?My first thoughts are fuel pump, ignition module or coil. It may be tough to find if you can't duplicate the problem in a repair shop. Someone may have to take tools and equipment on the drive and troubleshoot it when it happens.When it happens, will it sit and idle or does it shut down ?

Vehicle? Do all the windows work when the switch is replaced? How long does it last? Are one of the other switches stuck in position?Do all the other swicthes seem okay?On gm they all run through drivers side. Some systems are different. From the drivers side to say the passenger side front there are two wires that switch polarity between up and down. one wire is negative for up and positive for down, the other wire acts exact opposite. the other system the motor is grounded and there is a positive for up and a positive for down and no ground runs through. but I would say a bad door seal somewhere(bottom of driver window,at hinge tube conduit, or between door and vehicle up by windshield as water will follow seal around to inside of door)of if its a ford could be a gem module problem.

The filter should be in the fuel line between the gas tank and the engine. The line runs under the floor along the frame.

Could be at back under car left or right near tank.

Hello

The engine and the automatic transmission in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a filed pump or other pressure related problems.

the high humidity (water) is attacking your electrical starting system, whens the last time you changed your spark plug wires , distributor cap & rotor ? how about your fuel & air filters ? cleaned your battery terminals ? try it , it will help !!!!!!!!!

Check your fuse box ,on newer cars and trucks they are large metal encased fuses usually under the hood in relay box or under back seat,should be able to find exact location in owners manual .

you'll need to remove the doghouse, the cover over the engine in the passenger compartment. Sometimes you have to remove one of the front seats to get it out.

The oil pressure switch/sending unit will be just to the drivers side of the distributor. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

there is a switch to turn it on while driveing see if is on or the switch on the door could be bad

wireing harness short

From Gates Automotive

The AC orifice is a metered hole has a screen filter and it should never need replacing unless the system has some kind of failure like a compressor that is coming apart and piston fragments are getting into the orifice. The Orifice is located at the inlet tube to the AC Evaporator core on the firewall on the passengers side on most GM cars and trucks.

the only solution for that is to check your switch. Using your electrical tester when the switch is in off position check connectivity in ohms, if there is a connection it means faulty switch. Replace the switch. If the switch is ok then check the wiring going to the motor, the wire might be grounded. what i mean is that something bypass the connection, when you find it just take it out or cover it with electrical tape or insulation to cover open wire.

if they are 16inch tires I don't see a problem other than it may affect your speedo reading

check egr may be stuck open brake booster could have a leak internally. check pcv valve and all vacuum hoses for leak

Here is a very complete trouble fault table, where you may find the answer.

SOUND LIKE FUEL GAUGE IS FAULTY.IF YOU REPLACED FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY WITH NEW FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT.PROBLEM IS IN THE GAUGES.

Trouble Code: P1336 CKP Sensor System Variation Not Learned Possible Causes: Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels for safety. Verify the hood is closed. Read the trouble codes. If a code is set, refer to that code. Start the engine. Allow engine temperature to reach at least 158?F (70?C). Then key off. Select Crankshaft Position Variation Learn procedure on Scan Tool & start the vehicle. Apply the brake pedal firmly and verify the selector is in Park. Increase accelerator pedal position until fuel cutoff is reached at the test rpm (e.g., 5150). Quickly release the accelerator pedal after fuel cutoff is reached. The CKP system variation compensating values are learned when the engine speed (rpm) decreases back to idle speed and the procedure terminates. Read the trouble codes and recheck for DTC P1336. If DTC P1336 runs and passes, the CKP system variation "learn" procedure is complete. If not, look for other codes. If no codes are set, repeat the test procedure.

See if you can find a box terminal or something that they have in common. If they are connected to a bus-bar or in a terminal box it is possible that they have gotten dirty or oxidized and all connected together. It has to be something that they all hook to. Good Luck!Gilllight