Do the insturment cluster light's come when you turn the key to the on position ? check engine , security , brake , air bag ,ABS etc....
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuit's with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know what a electrical distribution diagram is ? How to use a wiring diagram to pin point testing areas in a wiring harness ? You need to learn how to test electrical system instead of guessing . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model , an engine size . Under system click on electrical distribution , then under subsystem click power distribution . Click search button , then the blue link. How did you check fuse's ? Pull them out an look at them ? Test with a volt meter . The metal tab's on top of the fuse .!
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
Is there B+ voltage at the IGN/RAP / ACCY 60 amp fuse in the right maxi fuse box . Plus IGN maxi 60amp fuse in the left maxi fuse box. Have B+ voltage across both of these check for B+ voltage at the electrical part of the ignition switch ! Do you know where that is an how to get at it ? If you want to fix cars you need to learn how , not guess .
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
How to use a volt meter videos on youtube .
There is a fuel pump prime cycle (2 or 3 seconds)when you turn the key to on and once you start the engine the fuel pump power comes though the oil pressure switch.No oil pressure,no power to the pump.maybe your oil pressure switch has become weak?I would use a scan tool and command the fuel pump on when it does shut off,just to make sure the pump can run,as it could be a bad pump too.Also when it does quit,if you turn the key off for 10 seconds, you should get a prime cycle by turning the key to on.Have someone listen at the gas tank for a fuel pump noise,which will be only 2 or 3 seconds,but will do as a pump running check.Next would be to check for power at the back at or near the fuel pump,power and no pump.replace pump.No power to pump,follow power back to the front through oil pressure switch and fuel pump relay etc.You can always add your own power to the pump from a power source the switches off with the key if needed bypassing the existing wiring and oil pressure switch.
check the heater inside under the dash and make sure the actuator motor is opening and closing the doors fully on the heater to direct the heat and ac.
Dear Don a,
I recently had a problem with my GMC doing the same thing, and it had the same transmission as yours.
The solutions for mine were the shift solenoids inside the transmission case.
Because I was driving a GMC van/motor home conversion, the local transmission shop could not fix it, so I had to do it myself.
I pulled the transmission pan, ( I had already purchased a transmission pan gasket and filter kit ) and found the two shift solenoids at the bottom edge of the transmission housing, and held on with 2 screws each.
I had to buy the solenoids at the local GMC dealer, they cost me $ 39 each.
I had the whole job done in 1 hour, and I am slow!
P.S. I found I had to tighten the transmission pan gasket several times because until I had the screws REALLY tight, it continued to seep oil.
God bless your efforts.
Which control solenoid ? There are a few ,1-2 shift , TCC solenoid ,3-4 shift ,PWM solenoid .
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Case Side Cover Replacement (W/ Gasket) .
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to
Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
in General Information.
Remove the park/neutral position switch. Refer to PNP Switch Replacement
Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking in General Information.
Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Suspension.
Remove the inner splash shield.
Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle assembly. Refer to Strut Assembly in Suspension.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm. Refer to Control Arm in Suspension.
Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Ball Joint in Suspension.
Remove the drive axle from the transmission. Refer to Drive Axle in Driveline/Axle.
Remove the pinch bolt from the steering gear intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft in Suspension.
Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion steering gear stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear or to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control, which could result in an accident and possible personal injury.
Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft in Suspension.
Position a transmission jack under the transmission oil pan. Raise the jack until lit supports the transmission.
Remove the three frame-to-body bolts on the left side.
Lower the transmission jack and the transmission in order to gain access to the case side cover.
Remove the oil cooler pipes at the case. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement
This is a monumental task , suggest you take your vehicle to AAMCO or some other transmission shop .
Heater switch might be bad so doesn't allow hot water to flow into the heater core. Also, there are doors that must move to channel heat into car, do you hear sounds when moving to Heat? Finally, heater cores tend to plug-up, so might require new core or power cleaning of radiator system.
be very careful, because the air bag will deploy. you have to disconnect the battery in a certain order and wait a certain amount of time before removing the air bag. check your motor manual.
if a bad temperature sensor the fan might not come on at all, even though the engine is overheating.check the fan relay and or fuses. if all is fine, run a wire from battery positive to positive connection on fan, to see if the fans work themselves. you may or may not need to ground the fans. Good-Day!
wiring to the starter; large cable coming from the battery to the
large post on the starter is direct current, hot at all times. there are two small wires that connect to the solenoid, one comes from the ignition.
Look for loose connection especially ground. If you jumper the connection on the solenoid to the large connection on the battery and it starts, I would suspect fault in the ignition circuit...