20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hello, my name is Ben. It's possible that both bulbs have burned out. Have you verified voltage going to the plug where it goes into the back of the headlights? As for your right headlight clicking. The most likely cause is the plastic gear inside the headlight motor is worn out. The gear will need to be replaced, or eventually the motor won't raise or lower the headlight. There are brass gears made as an aftermarket part that are vastly superior to the stock GM plastic gears. I hopes this helps. Feel free to ask any other questions if you need more information.

Hi! Please do check the wire connector on the Fluid Reservoir. It may have been disconnected thats why its not working. Just reconnect it and it will be fine. Hope this helps, have a good one!

possible connection under the dash. could also be bad connection at the switch in the steering wheel or bad switch all together. if it still honks with the alarm, the relay is more than likely still good. something electrical on the switch side of the relay.

fuse is bad. also check that your tail lights work too

What kind of vehicle do you have?

Hello, this is a very easy job.The main thing is to look at the routing of the belt very carefully before you remove it. It looks so simple at first look, but it's easy to get confused once it's off. With a ratchet and a 15mm socket, or a box end 15mm wrench, release the the belt tensioner by pushing it towards the center of the engine, then just pull the belt off, then you can let the tensioner go back slowly. It's also helpful if you put a wire on the old belt so it doesn't fall way down in there. Then you just route the new belt around all but one pulley and push the tensioner to the center again and place the belt over the final pulley and release the tensioner.

You have no idea what kind of damage it got from the front impack, remember its fiberglass not steel, and it could have floded up like an acordand and damaged the crank on the engine if it hit hard enought. Instead of worying about the maintenance record consider what kind of damage it sustained.

A very small J hook can open it although it may be tricky to do for some

theres a recall on guage cluster it should be covered

sensor is bad. you can try electric contact cleaner but youre probably going to replace it.

Raise the headlights, either with the switch or manually by turning the knob on the headlight motor counter-clockwise.
Unplug the lights NOW to avoid an accidental closing on your fingers,
Remove the 3 philips screws holding the black plastic surrounding the headlights, and slide it forward, there is a small clip on the top that helps hold it to a corresponding clip at the top of the headlight,
Look inside the cavity and you can see the 5 nuts/bolts ( 6 on later years ) that need to be removed,
If you are on the driver's side you can now remove the whole assembly, on the passenger's side you must first unplug the headlight door control module.

Open the hatch/door on the center console, pry up that plastic piece just forward of the door with a small screwdriver working from the rear, remove those 2 nuts in the recess, unscrew the door if you wish for easier handling, at the rear of the console opening there are 2 small plastic covers, pop those out and remove the 2 nuts under them, lift the rear of the console and slide it back just enough to unplug the fuel door opening button( there isn't much slack in the wiring for this button so don't pull the console back too far ). I suspect you only needed step one, but this will get the console out for easier access to the power outlet.

The outside temp sensor is located under the passenger side by the front skid rail.

Does the car have a spear tire? Maybe its not tight in its cratel.

the sending unit is in the tank. jack it up make sure fuels low disconnect lines and filler hose and wireing to pump drop straps lower tank.undo bolt to tank top unlock locking ring.take out sending unit and pump replace and reverse.involved but not that complicated unless your exhaust is in the way.hope that helps

The Problem that I Have seen with Many Vettes and FRONT Lighting Problems is At the Wiring Harness and Connectors, Check Any area that gets BENDING MOVMENT when Openeing ENGINE COMPARTMENT, the Wires Break INSIDE THERE INSULATION. Check for Turn Sygnal Current (With TEST LIGHT) at ALL JUNCTIONS Starting at the FIREWALL when it STOPS SHOWING You have Located the Problem in the Curcit.

The fuel filler door release is the black button at the front of the center console storage compartment.

If your fuel filler door release won’t operate, there is a manual release tab. The tab is located against the upper trim in the rear compartment on the driver's side.

Hopefully it's not a transmission problem but the more obvious which would be a universal joint. you have those on each end of the drive shaft and one on each end of the drive axles. the drive axles are exposed and easy to check by just getting under it and feeling for slack. The shaft itself is enclosed and I consider that a job for the dealer.

I think you have a vacum problem. Check the vacum hose that, I think starts at the rear of the intake manafold
that hose will pass through the fire wall. Check to be sure
that the hose is not split or BENT stopping the vacumn
from getting to the A/C & Heater system.
Part of the job of that hose is to open & close the vents
air direction.

you need to replace the temperature actuator on the left side of heater evaporator case, also ck the blower resistor and connection that should fix ya up.