2002 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Blower resistor must be bad ,think It's under the pass dash

depends on which engine you have but most are like the 6.6L below.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5973094-starter_replace . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Here is the video for chevy silverado window repairs :--

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

possibly bad crankshaft sensor. Is the engine light on?

It is possible that the ball joint is bad, to check you can jack the wheel up 1/2 off the pavement and use a tire iron to lift up and on the tire and watch the ball joint if it moves up and down thats your problem. from a mechanics point of view I would replace both the top and bottom at the same time as this saves labor since you have to tear it down anyway and the upper ball joint should be worn as well. If the ball joint does not move then put your hands on each side of the tire and move it back and forth, if you get movement you will need to get a second person to move the tire back and forth and watch to see where the play is. normally it will be in the drag link or the control rod, replace items as needed and try for free play again, you may find another bad part as well. normally there is more than on failed part. once you have done the parts replacement you can put a scratch in the tire with a nail on each front tire and then with a tape measure measure the front and back of the front tire you will want to get it toed in 1/8 of an inch then go to a tire shop for a alignment. should be around 58 inch's center so front would be 57 inch's and 15/16 this of an inch and the back would be 58 inch's and 1/16 of an inch. hope this helps. If it does please rate and thanks for using fix-ya.

Through the surge tank/over flow tank, it retains the water to exchange with the radiator and is marked wioth levels hot and cold.

not hard if you have the right tools

Mike--you should do all the work yourself,then it will be done correctly

Get the ABS Code, from a code reader at parts store--You can replace the Wheel Speed Sensor,if you know which one failed.
Exhaust won't be fun,but it is, what it is.
The inner door panel comes off,and you install a new regulator,common lately on all veh. (Wear long sleeve shirt with heat shield sleeves on top,gloves as much as possible,keep cuts to minimum)

You WILL be flushing brake fluid,power steering,changing trans,transfer,axles,coolant,.May NEVER have been done,RIGHT

Hi, the duramax is a complicated engine, and many different items could be at fault. The dealer has a vacuum guage, that would tell you if you have a restriction, or leak, the pump could be faulty, the injectors could have high return rates,te fuel rail pressure has to build to 1400psi, before the engine can start. There could also be an issue with the fuel injection control module, or ficm. Unfortunatly, with so many variables possible, thhis would need to go to a dealer for diag. Good luck...

the top hose

See solution to similar problem at http://www.fixya.com/cars/t5949032-air_coming_out_vents_very_little_even and let me know if you have questions

Seriously try this: spray WD-40 in the groove where the actual steering wheel attaches to the steering column. This worked on mine after a mechanic told me about it. It quit working again a few weeks later so I sprayed some more all around (had to use the straw to get it up in there) and it works fine now so far.

If your AC isn't blowing out cold air, but does blow out warm air, it could be the freon level. Make sure the AC clutch is ingaged and check the AC relay in the fuse box under the hood. Double check the freon level . Smell antifreeze without seeing steam or finding a leak? Don't worry, it is a leak, it's just too small to find. If you smell the leak only when you get out of the car, then its "cap steaming". If you smell the antifreeze inside the auto, with the windows up, that's a problem with the heater core or the hoses to the heater core. Get the ac pressure test done at any local car garage,this will confirm if there is leak or the coolant/antifreeze is low.---------- Thanks.

This cable is part of the window regulator.You will have to remove the window and replace the complete window regulator.Not that hard of a job.You should be able to do this yourself.Just leave the old one in til you get the new one.You will need a 10mm socket for the bolts.I believe there are 2 on the window and 4 on the regulator.Let me know if you need more help.Good luck.

inexhaust pipes behind exhaust manifold look under driver side trk at exhaust @ you should be able to see a least one of them.they won't be too far from motor because they plug into the system. hope i helped!!

Start with a tune up, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, air filter and that might cure the PO300B code, hope this helps, Gary

I have had problems with the dimming switch on those.. They are part of the headlamp switch and the contacts get dirty. Try moving the switch slowly while watching the lamps to see if they flicker.. if so you may be able to clean it with electrical contact cleaner and compressed air. If not you may want to try a salvage yard for a used one.. good luck and let me know if I can help.
Ron

The oil pressure sender is located on the back of the engine block, top center. If you look over the top of your intake manifold(you'll have to take the plastic cover off the top of the engine to see it) you can make out the plug sticking up in the back. It takes a large socket to remove, and is a very tight squeeze. The sensor looks like a black plastic cylinder sticking up in the back of the engine with a wire connector on it.

jack up pull wheel, pull brake caliper and bracket, take nut off axle in center of bearing on back side where axle goes in should be 4 bolts make sure to dis connect abs sensor cause its comin with the bearing that should be bout it some times they come out hard but the will come out

Did the mechanic remove the rear driveshaft to check for a binding U-joint or just check for loose u-joints without removing the shaft. You need to remove the shaft to do a good check of the joints