20 Most Recent 1987 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 190 Class - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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Ground the sensor wire to ground does gauge go to hot if so replace sensor

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Check for a strip fuse on the driver side strut mount, it will be in a tootsie roll sized case. If you dont have that fuse and have rotated all your fuses due to corrosion then blower motor may have gone out or regulator.

one with a usb support and SD card reader is best who needs CDs

Something is wrong with the gearbox linkages or the valves. You need to take it out of the car to have a look at them - and at the valve body it commands.
Definitely a job for a shop, and it will be expensive.

The heavy vibration during braking sounds like it is warped disc rotors. This car has disc brakes on all wheels, so it could be one or all of them causing the problem. One way to identify whether it is the front or the rear is to observe the steering wheel while braking and feeling the vibrations. If the steering wheel is shimmying at the same frequency as the vibration, it is almost certain that it is the front. If not it is the rear. Do a visual inspection of your pads and rotors. You will probably see scoring in the rotors. It is a fairly easy do-it-yourself job with improved braking and that smooth Mercedes ride we all love.

Not sure about this specific car... but most have an idle solenoid, a small elecrtric motor that has a rod that slides in and out pushing against the throttle, the mechanism that controls engine speed. When you gas pedal is pushed you can see the throttle moving in the engine compartment. Sometimes the problem is the solenoid itself, or sensors that feed the computer faulty info about how to maintain the idle. D you have a check engine light on? If so, some auto stores can determine what the problem is by using a device that asks the car computer what part triggered the check engine light. Please rate answer.

The K relay or headlight relay goes bad in these and control all the lights and the bulb out indicator. It should be in the fuse box or under the screwed down cover connected to the fuse box.
The starter not working is the neutral safety switch on the transmission, when it goes bad cannot be started. It is a sefty feature to allow car not to be started in anything but park or neutral.
The electric windows maybe old dirty switches, remove the center console wood and move the good switch around and see if they work.

Ok the knock is your flex discs on the drive shaft are bad along with the carrier bearing. Replace before you get stranded or it comes loose.
Fuel distributor may need work if it is hard to start when warm, Replace OVP relay by battery also, its always an issue.

have to be able to turn it 1 last time, turn to position 1 take 2 small rods, put in hole and pull assembly out by the key.

2 forward brackets unclip and fold away and then door pivots up to show fuses. The screwed doen cover has 4 screws to come off uncovering the relays behind the fuses.

Check sensors on dryer, check freon charge, Check sampler valve in car and check A/C relay.

At least 20 or more the MB's can get 1 million miles with proper preventive and corrective maintenance. When you see badges on the grill of a Benz thats from milage goals.

first check oil water, air filter, check every thing, turn the key once to see if the motor will turn over. if it does try and start it, if it does not start remove air filter lid, spray starting fld inside, try starting again. if it does not start, pull off one plug wire, put a screw driver inside of wire to make contact with the metal part of the wire. than set the screw driver near a metal part of the car. you are now checking for a spark, have some one try to start the car. while u r watching for a spark from the screw driver the the matel part of the car. if not spark, check coil. if there is a spark. check for the ignition fuse. if fuse is good. now check for gas. remove the rule line have some one crank the car over. (DO NOT FACE THE LINE TOWARDS YOUR FACE) should have gas coming out. if not fuel, check the pump filter clogged lines. if there is gas put line back on. prime it while some one is cranking the car over.

In the trunk on the left side is access to the sunroof motor where you can manually close the roof.

I believe it is a 17mm nut. Also I think that the tire lug nut removal tool will fit.

look for firing order and rotation of wires around cap stamped on intake with number one piston on top dead center compression stroke the rotor button will point at number one wire location on cap

Something is draining the power. You have an open circuit somewhere. The sooner it drains(1-2 hours) the bigger the load, the more heat you should be able to detect from the drain. If it takes a lot longer(like overnight) then it will be a little harder to detect. Try unhooking things one at a time. Your alternator could be working properly when the car is running, then shorting when its off. That would make the drain fast. A light staying on under the hood or in the trunk, or dome light would make it drain slower. Or it could be just a wire shorting to ground.

should have rubber squeeze thing to prime it up

Starting from the front of the engine, the fan blade. The cylinders are numbered 1 and next 2 and so on untill you get to the back of the engine wich is 6 .
Your timing order is 153624

Serpentine Belt Diagram - 87 Merc 190E

Go to the following web site below (copy and paste the web address below into your browser)

http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycoweb.nsf/cf652a4feb630ad0862571a4005ae40c/a866a821123f887c862571a5006988df!OpenDocument

There are 2 PDF documents to open - above the photo on the site.

The first - the Routing Guide - shows the reference for the belt diagram (1987 MERC 190E) which is 6-2 on page 92 of the Guide.
The second PDF shows the belt diagram for 6-2.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Sean
Voluntary contributor.