Top 20 1987 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 190 Class Questions & Answers

Sounds like a bad or dirty injector take injectors out and check and clean

You do it whatever way works, keep at it you are doing it the best way I know of. If you can't get it out call a locksmith.

Are you sure its smoke not steam? Most common problem is the heater core leaking. Look for moisture on the floor boards first. If it is wet then you have a heater core problem

check the window buttons incase the wire has come off the back as I think you have to lift the centre gear console slightly to access the radio apart from this it may just be a coinsedance that its gone the same time

I am sorry we do not have access to these security codes. Please contact the MB dealer for assistance.

There are many reasons why fuel pumps have no power, most (in tank) fuel pumps fail due to low fuel inside of tank.These fuel pumps turn at an alarming rate which in turn causes an alarming amount of heat. This heat is then dissipated by the fuel inside of the tank itself.If the driver/operator allows to run the fuel very low and continue to do so, this will over time allow for the fuel pump to overheat due to the ONLY source used to cool the fuel pump is the fuel inside of the fuel tank itself. Electrically, view the operator's manual or similar source to locate fuel pump fuse and/or relay of which will open the electrical path when the fuel pump overheats.This should be a pretty good starting point to locate/isolate electrical issue you may be experiencing.Good Hunting to you & hope this gets you back on the road soon!FASTESTNASCAR

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Slow to start, stumbling, stall completely,dies while driving.This all possibilities indicates towards problem with low fuel pressure.The flow of fuel is little bit low then actually required.If the fuel will not reach on time to the engine, then engine will stumble, stall and at last die.--------- So first thing to be checked in your case is fuel pressure.Get the fuel pressure checked, if its checked low, then problem is fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.--------- Other possibility can be problem with crank position sensor failure. It could be the magnet on the flywheel is the problem and not the Hall-effect sensor itself.Both the cam shaft and crank shaft sensor needs to be tested.The camshaft position sensor usually results in some sort of error codes such as misfires, while the crank position sensor does not. The crank sensor basically just tells the ECM that the engine is still running while the cam sensor deals with timing.---------- But most probably, this problem is related to problem with fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.If fuel pump pressure is checked ok and fuel pump anfd filter tested ok, then only check the other possible parts like, crank sensor, cam sensor, MAF filter, throttle body.------ The MAF( mass air flow) sensor and throttle body needs proper cleaning, sometimes.If the throttle body and MAF gets dirty with oil getting clogged there and dirt getting build up there, then this also causes the problem with fuel / air mixture. Getting this possibilities checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

You need to use a pressure manifold gauge:http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-CHIMG777-Conditioning-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B000VAQQ3Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1374522452&sr=8-3&keywords=r22+pressure+gaugeConnect the red hose to the high pressure side located in front of the radiator, connect the blue hose to the low pressure side located in front of the fuse box, there is a thick metallic tube that has a tire-style cap, unscrew that and attach it, purhcase R-12 refrigerant can of at least 1kg, then attach an adapter to the can and connect the yellow hose to this part, open up the flow valve and turn the can upside down while your car is running and the A/C is on. Check for pressure, the high side should have a high pressure and low side should be as low as possible while the compressor clicks on. Google for the exact pressure numbers as I don't remember. Just make sure that the AC compressor located at the bottom of the belts is engaged, this is engaged by the correct pressure setting automatically

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Ground the sensor wire to ground does gauge go to hot if so replace sensor

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Check for a strip fuse on the driver side strut mount, it will be in a tootsie roll sized case. If you dont have that fuse and have rotated all your fuses due to corrosion then blower motor may have gone out or regulator.

one with a usb support and SD card reader is best who needs CDs

The heavy vibration during braking sounds like it is warped disc rotors. This car has disc brakes on all wheels, so it could be one or all of them causing the problem. One way to identify whether it is the front or the rear is to observe the steering wheel while braking and feeling the vibrations. If the steering wheel is shimmying at the same frequency as the vibration, it is almost certain that it is the front. If not it is the rear. Do a visual inspection of your pads and rotors. You will probably see scoring in the rotors. It is a fairly easy do-it-yourself job with improved braking and that smooth Mercedes ride we all love.

Something is wrong with the gearbox linkages or the valves. You need to take it out of the car to have a look at them - and at the valve body it commands.
Definitely a job for a shop, and it will be expensive.

Not sure about this specific car... but most have an idle solenoid, a small elecrtric motor that has a rod that slides in and out pushing against the throttle, the mechanism that controls engine speed. When you gas pedal is pushed you can see the throttle moving in the engine compartment. Sometimes the problem is the solenoid itself, or sensors that feed the computer faulty info about how to maintain the idle. D you have a check engine light on? If so, some auto stores can determine what the problem is by using a device that asks the car computer what part triggered the check engine light. Please rate answer.

have to be able to turn it 1 last time, turn to position 1 take 2 small rods, put in hole and pull assembly out by the key.

2 forward brackets unclip and fold away and then door pivots up to show fuses. The screwed doen cover has 4 screws to come off uncovering the relays behind the fuses.

look for firing order and rotation of wires around cap stamped on intake with number one piston on top dead center compression stroke the rotor button will point at number one wire location on cap

Check sensors on dryer, check freon charge, Check sampler valve in car and check A/C relay.

Something is draining the power. You have an open circuit somewhere. The sooner it drains(1-2 hours) the bigger the load, the more heat you should be able to detect from the drain. If it takes a lot longer(like overnight) then it will be a little harder to detect. Try unhooking things one at a time. Your alternator could be working properly when the car is running, then shorting when its off. That would make the drain fast. A light staying on under the hood or in the trunk, or dome light would make it drain slower. Or it could be just a wire shorting to ground.