20 Most Recent 1992 Pontiac Grand Prix - Page 5 Questions & Answers

No, unfortunatly not. They did not come up with that feature until later models. The fuel tank will have to be removed and the pump replaced.
Good luck.

on my car it was in the glove box

by-pass pipe

It's been a while since I worked on a 92 Grand Prix but there is a plate that you need to remove to get at the fuel pump. It is located in the trunk floor. I believe you have to remove the spare tire to gain access to the plate. This action will reveal the pump & just remove the retaining bolts. Good luck!

Usually it's best to unbolt the entire bracket. Make sure you label the plug wires. Unplug the control module. Change 1 coil at a time, they should be held on with 7 or 8mm bolts.

The first thing to do is, if there was any old gas in the tank, get rid of it, it's no good, you have to drop the gas tank and pour it out, but before you do that, make sure you hear a buzzing sound from the tank, that's the fuel pump, if you hear that then the pump is working.
When the tank is out, check the hoses and make sure there is no cracking in them or being brittle, if there is replace them.
Next, change the oil and filter
The no spark is probably do to a bad coil, change that, put the plugs in.
Change the fuel filter
When you get ready to start it, turn ignition switch on, but don't crank it, turn it back off, then on, do this a few times so the fuel pump can force the gas through the line and pressurize the system. If it still doesn't start! Then further testing needs to be done. Hope this helped a little. Good luck.

Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).

Thank you for using fixya and good luck

Sorry, Reverse isn't adjustable on the 4T60E.

Either the motor or the switch is bad.
Put a test light on the motor connector from the door
operate the switch. If you use an LED test light like they sell at walmart, it lights up red and green.
Up will light one color and down will light another color.
If it does not light up or it only lights one color, replace the switch.
If it lights up red one way and green the other or the standard bulb test light lights up both directions off the motor connector when operation the switch,
Replace the motor in the door.

u don't have leaf springs on this car, they r coil springs

its located at the rear of engine on driverside, heres a picture that lists a few sensor locations, d = the coolant temp sensor, good luck.

If the key for the door is the same, then you can take the lock out of the door and have one made easily by any lock smith. But if it is not the same, then the dealer is probably right.

the firing order for this car is 123456, if your looking for how they go on the coils then here you go.if your standing in frt of car the 3 cylinders close to you or the radiator are starting at your left are 2,4,6 the rear cylinders left to right are 1,3,5 now looking at the coils left to right are 146325 if you get confused try going right to left and then left to right until it starts. heres a diagram to help you, hope this helps, good luck.

Some times this noise will stop later,but if it does not stop ,within 25 miles,it most likely will not,take the pump back as a defective part for exchange.

runs 32 CODE, EGR VALVE LOOK FINE

step by step heres what you got to do
1.disconnect battery ground cable
2.remove nut retainer and jam nuts hten steering wheel
3.remove turn signal cancel cam assembly
4.remove hazard warning screw and knob
5.move the turn signal switchso you can access the turn signal screws and housing screws which can be accessed through the opening in the switch
6.remove housing screws and housing
7.only on models with tilt steering wheels remove shoe pin retainer cap
8.remove pivot switch screw and pivot pluse switch assembly
9.remove turn signal screws
10.remove wire prtecting from opening in instrument panel bracket assemblyand seperate from wires
11.disconnect turn signal switch connector from ignition and dimmer switch assembly connector
12.disconnect 17 wy lock from turn signal connector
13.use ternimnal tool #j-35689-a or equivelent, disconnect wires on buzzer switch assemble from turn signal connector
14.remove turn signal switch assembly from column
15 reverse to put back together
16. please note that signal and column housing screws got to be torqued to 35 inch lbs the switch screws at 20 inch lbs hazards at 7 inch lbsand the jam nuts at 30 ft lbs

more than likely it aint the motor due to the fact that the window occasisionally works the motor works its seems to me that it could either be a short in the electrical or the relay is on the way out

on the floor just in front of the driver seat, next to the door

well the question i have for you is which fan exactly are you looking for because there are two types of fans a primary and a secondary fan and both are found in the passanger side of the car under the glove box

Smoking is caused by a few different things. First, you have to look at the color of the smoke to determine what's burning. If the smoke is blue(most common), then it's oil burning, if it's white, then it's antifreeze, and if it's black, it's unburned fuel. Blue smoke is oil escaping into the cylinder prior to ignition. On high mileage engines, the usual places are worn valve guides, where the oil runs down the valve stem and into the cylinder. On Occasion, a faulty PCV valve will cause this under certain moderate-high throttle conditions, but usually intermittently, with a sudden drop in performance. Worn Piston rings will also cause a constant blue smoke emission, another very common occurrence in high-mileage or worn engines. When you're burning oil, you will usually get excessive deposits on your spark plugs. Black smoke is a mismanagement of fuel by the car's computer and sensors. It means that it's running way too much fuel in the mixture of fuel to air, and not all of the fuel is burning. Black smoke isn't very prominent, and rarely lingers. The average person won't notice it as being out of the ordinary. Causes include faulty oxygen sensors, airflow sensor, map sensor, vacuum leak, and a myriad of other sensor issues. White smoke is caused from antifreeze leaking into the engine prior to ignition. It's usually caused from a blown head gasket or cracked head, and often is accompanied by a cylinder or two misfiring on startup. It's most prominent when you first start it up in the morning.
All of these require additional troubleshooting measures, and this is not an all-inclusive list of possible problems causing each smoke, however it should give you a good start on determining what's up with your car, as these are the most common causes. Hope this is what you were looking for.