Top 20 1989 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 500 Class - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The suspension has a leak somewhere and/or the airmatic compressor has stopped working properly. You need either the Mercedes star diagnosis system (SDS) in order to access the suspension control module to tell it to raise the vehilce or you can try to trick it by jacking up the car so it thinks it's sitting at the correct ride height. But as long as the display reads a warning it won''t allow the airmatic compressor to run.

The fuel level is ok.But fuel pressure.It can be low.If the fuel pressure is low then it will not start frequently as required.Get the fuel pressure checked.If the pressure is low then this problem is related to faulty fuel pump or fuel filter.
as you spray fuel the fuel directly gets to the fuel rail and car starts,but when the aerosol is not sprayed then the fuel is not passing to the fuel rail and car is not starting.After few tries the fuel gets to fuel rail/fuel line and car starts.So check the fuel pressure,also get the fuel line and fuel rail checked.-----------Also see if spark plugs are wet or moisture collected or spark plugs worn out Then its faulty spark plug causing this problem.------------
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

First ignition on, then have a look on steering wheel you have two multifunction switch group on your steering at left and right, press right arrow key on left switch group, keep eye on instrument cluster display then get setting menu and press OK key on same switch group, then use up and down arrow keys to select time then press OK, and now you have to operate right hand switch group + or - key for increase or decrees time.adjust the time or date you need then press OK, is this information helped you?

Check in this site: mercedes/service_and_parts/owners_manuals

Hope helps (remember to rate this answer).

1) Fuse.

2) Connection.

3) Bulb.

check the fuel pressure

drivers side open door end of dash ,a cover ---

What do you mean by "the car is shaking"? Are you refering to when the engine is running at idle(or standing in gear) or while driving down the road? Also, what year and model is this car?

Here is the firing order diagram for that vehicle and engine.

There are some possibilities that you will have to check out. As you mentioned that fuse burns out.So what you try first is replace the fuse with bit high ampere fuse .Then check out.Is it still burning or working with high ampere fuse.But if the high ampere fuse is also burning then the blower fan motor and fan plug connections needs to be checked.Any of this is faulty and getting over heated and this is shorting the fuse track to burn out.The voltage at blower motor and fan plug will be exact 12 in meter. If its low or no voltage that part has to be replaced.but first you try out with high ampere fuse. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Hello. If you are mechanically minded and enjoy crawling under vehicles you should begin by checking the fuses that control each area and then the ground wires. With the ground wires you should remove each from the spot where it is screwed or bolted to the frame and then use emery cloth to clean the frame and that ground wire connector to bare metal and then reattach. IF you are not into these things I recommend that you look in the yellow pages for a local autoelectric repair shop. They have the diagnostic tools, know how, and equipment to solve your problems in no time flat. Joe

The fuel pump and filter is located on the left side of the vehicle, rear, just in front of the left rear wheel. If there is no fuel getting to the CIS system, it is more likely that the pump is in trouble. Pressure is very critical in these systems. Let me know what else you need. I know these cars quite well.

Look under your hood, you will find contact points for jump starting. If you have a battery charger, you can connect it to those jumper points, and that will give you enough juice to operate the trunk lock.

at rear of the car near the fuel tank under the car.

could be several things from rocker arms on the valves to low oil pressure dirty engine internely what i would do is remove belts from engine start and see if noise is still there if its gone then check all pulleys for that same noise kinda tough to say with out hearing in person if the engine is gunked up inside look when takeing off oil cap if you see heavy sluge then do a coulpe three oil changes with an engine oil flush that may help it . also listen near timimng cover area for that noise when belts are off dont run too long watch temp gauge. hope this helps Thunderboltz

Hi the wires that plug into the switch, locate the 2 that put the window up then switch then around and press the button this should put the window down.

If you revesrs the polarity of the motor then it will work backwards. hope that helps
regards
dan

Hi.

Error codes will be stored in the PCM, and transmission error codes in the TCM.
The best thing to do is going back to the garage, reporting the problem, and scanning the computer control modules.


The error codes returned will tell you what the problem can be.

If the problem is transmission related, if the car was working OK before the last repair at the shop, there may be a wiring problem to throttle position sensor, TCM connector , or speed sensor. This can cause transmission troubles.

If instead the car is running rough at cold, then check wiring to AIT and MAF sensors, and look for problems in the vacuum system.

Does the rest of the electrical work and will the car start up and drive? The fuel cap has nothing to do with the locks and trunk not working, if the car won't start at all then you have a low battery, if the car runs fine and your locks and trunk won't open with the key or remote then check the fuses under the drivers side steering wheel and maake sure the battery in your remote FOB is not dead if you have keyless locks and trunk release

probably both
also you might need a thermostat

This is a common problem. The actuators that work the locks are actually very reliable, (but occaisionally go bad so I wouldn't rule them out). The most likely cause is a vacuum leak. Could be the tubing, (gets brittle and cracks with age), or connector. The hardest part is traciing the leak. Takes time and patience. I would start at the door or trunk lid and work backwards until you find the leak, then repair. If you need parts for this I also have a great source, has always proven reliable for me. Rick at Newton AutoHaus has several wrecks that he can remove parts from and ship, also has access to new ones, and a well stocked parts dept. He is a mercedes certified mechanic that left the mercedes svc dept and went out on his own many years ago. He can also help you on the phone if you get "stuck". Here is his #: 828-466-1759. Hope this is helpful. Good Luck!