20 Most Recent 1992 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 500 Class - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You can go to most any autoparts store and have the codes scanned too for free that may give you codes to help point you to the right direction right away. Try checking your distributer cap and wires. You can check for continuity with a volt meter for your wires and then look under the dis. cap for any posible corrosion. Another thing is to pull that plug of the cylinders that are not firing (should be the ones that when you pull the spark plug wire no change to engine RPM is noted) see if they are black/white. Black means too much gas(rich) and white is not enough gas (lean).

When was the last time plugs, plug wires cap/s rotor/s and coilc were replaced? I would try that first. Also you have the starting year when mercedes was told by the US to use biodegradable insulation that was "cooked" by engine compartment heat. Try buymbparts.com for engine wiring harness and lower engine wiring harness to replace them.

first I would check your sway bar links in the rear to make sure they are not broken. If the suspension is stiff it is probably your ads accumulaters( I believe it was standard on the 500 model). Also check your fluid level to make sure you have proper fluid in the reservoir in the engine compartment and that your pump is working properly( it is a tandem pump which is also your power steering pump. There is also an adjustment on the sway bar that is adjusted by moving the arm that attaches the valve to the sway bar on the right side of the rear sway bar.

hi,clarification 129.066 engine 119.960 or 129.067 engine 119.972 same v8 engine but different specification,post your engine number,you need 2 mm valve timing using a dial gauge,ty

i would say check brakes first, make sure you dont have a sticking caliper. take off breaks press in caliper, if it wont go in replace the caliper, i would say your brake system would be making the sticking feeling and not the transmission from how you make it sound.

there are 2 slots find a feeler gauge or something flat undo 1 side at a time pull staight out

There should be a fuse chart in the trunk of the vehicle where the tools are. Lift up the carpet in the trunk to expose the tools. It should be all folded up and stuffed in with the tool to remove the lug bolts. The chart will show the fuse and fuse box locations.

For 1984 Mercedes Benz 500SEC 5.0L FI 8cyl I find this...




Fig. 14: Emission hose routing and components 1984 V8 models


Hope helps.

Cooling fans will run after the engine is shut down. The coolant doesn't. This would be a faulty coolant sensor, PCM, or a fan relay that is sticking. You can swap relays and see if it is that. After that, it needs to be to a scanner to read the temps and PCM. If want to take a chance, you could replace the coolant sensor. I can't tell you where it is as I work on to many types of vehicles.

Neutral safety switch, if it starts in neutral.

The easiest fix is to hook up a scanner on the suspension test plug. This will give you a test to each sensor. Some models may even record a history of performance.Underneath the car, someone can use soapy water and spray the air lines and suspension bags to test for leaks. There are venting solenoids on each wheel to level the car and a Master solenoid called a "dump" valve to release all of the air The system is tied into the doorjam and trunklid switches which must be closed to allow the system to work. Escaping air should be easy enough to find.

Sounds like you have too much fuel going to the injectors. Your car has a CIS fuel injection system that relies on mechanical inputs do decide how much fuel to send to each injector. One of two things has likely happened. Either the plunger in the bottom of the fuel distributor is stuck up, or the diaphragm in the fuel distributor is broken. The first is easy enough to check if you can get the fuel distributor(the aluminum block on top of the engine with all of the fuel lines coming out of it) out. The plunger comes out of the bottom center. You should be able to push it in and watch is slowly spring back out. If not it needs to be removed and cleaned, but that's not just a straightforward job. Look online for videos on fuel distributor repair to decide if you want to tackle this. Diaphragm failure is harder to diagnose. If you get there it might be best to look for a rebuilt fuel distributor. A third possibility is that the fuel return line from the fuel distributor back to the tank is clogged, you should be able to easily push air through the line into the tank after you remove the fuel filler cap. Good Luck.

go to each corner of the car. push the car down and up a couple of times to try to get it going up and down as best you can then let go. The car should return to normal in one movement not bounce up and down. Shocks may be expensive but besides a more comfortable ride they are a safety feature because they keep your wheels on the ground. Bad shocks let your car bounce - if you hit your breaks the car will bounce and on the up bounce the wheels can skid and it takes longer to stop.

Head lights are not fused.

replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump . check for fuel pressure . The injectors may be rusted up in the tips and wire connections may be corroded up and not working

fuel filter is under car foward of rear axle on passenger side.It is inside a plastic box that must be removed to see pump,and filter