1991 Nissan Maxima - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The first thing to look for is the oil in good condition, next you will want to replace the tail shaft seal and if it's front wheel drive it's harder to do, anyway be sure the oil is ok and ask if the have a warranty for it normally 30 days, also take the tork converter out to a transmission shop and ask them if it's good and if it will work, if the used tyranny does not come with one the pump has to be the right size of input shaft and pump shaft you may have to shell out $30..00 bucks for the check but it’s better than pulling the tyranny again.

if it ran out of gas it just may be air locked, you can't just crank the engine turn the key to the run postion for 3 seconds and shut off and do this 7 or 8 times then try starting it. The fuel pump will not pump while cranking it is a fail safe if the car is in a wreck and the pump won't continue to pump gas out and catch on fire. This should fix it for you.

why would you leave it open for so dang long and it would be safe it probly wont tho

Probably a bad distibutor.That's my best answer not knowing in what weather conditions are when this happens.

check the fuel pressure

get a proper spark tester. it can look like the car has spark but it could be too weak to jump the spark plug gap. it needs a proper tester to make sure you have the 20,000 volts needed.

See if you have a leak in any of your coolant tubes. If no leaks, you may have a bad thermostat that is stuck closed and needs to be replaced asap.

For one thing get the leak stopped and then run some Dry Gas through your tank. Could be water in there.

Yes also get the distributor checked thoroughly. Its contact points might be worn out by now..............sodeep

Check your distributor cap and make sure that everything internally is working properly. You may need to replace the distributor

Sounds like another junk transmission to me.

You need to replace your window regulators. (The tracks/pulleys and cables.)

Check the wires on the transmission tail shaft to see if they may have come loss. If not check behind the speedo it self for lose wires. Good Luck

the speed sensor is on the the tail housing of the transmission, located by the firewall straight down from the back of the engine, it is a round looking sensor on the top of the housing has a 2 wire plug with about a 8 in. lead, but it may not be the problem, I have one also that I think is the speedo itself, this sensor sends the signal right to the speedo and then the speedo have a processor that sends the signal to the ecm.

I'd start by changing the thermostat. Make sure you let it run for quite a while after, when adding coolant back into system, with heater on (not defrost) at least long enough for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times, before you put cap back on the rad, to make sure all air is bled out of the system, then top up return bottle.

Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?

look behind the arm rest pull the 2 plastic tabs out and remove the 2 10mm bolts

If your year car has one it will be inside your glove box. Either on a sticker or etched into the plastic itself.

davdancast:The problem you have described is more than likely window regulator failure and/or window motor failure where the gears in the motor have broken. 99% of the time though, it's the regulator. Nearly every automotive manufacturer has gone to this "CHEAP"!!!! design. It consists of an aluminum track which sits vertically when installed. There is a nylon runner which runs in the guide of this track and the window it self is attached by two bolts that a 10mm socket will remove. On the outskirts of the regulator is a series of nylon pulleys which a small twisted metal cable run on and the cable runs into a casing which is affixed to the inner door housing. The window motor is bolted to the regulator utilizing the same size bolts as the regulator. The failure is due to the nylon parts breaking and then the cable comes out of place, consequently the window drops to the bottom of the door.
The regulator from Nissan is rather expensive, but DOOMAN, makes one which is available from many auto parts houses at a considerable savings.
In terms of skill level? In our trade, it is listed at level "B": must have some reasonably decent mechanical aptitude. The pitfalls if you don't know what you are doing? Break the driver's door window switch: $140. = tax if you don't know how to disconnect the harness from the switch. You had better check with salvage yards on the price of door glass and interior door panels because CPR is not part of my job description and you will need it if you price new parts! The actual job isn't that difficult, but you need to take your time, read up on the subject. Go to a Barnes an Noble and pick up a Haynes shop manuel or look through a variety of other shop manuals. You don't have to buy them, just study the instructions and put the book back. If you plan on keeping your car and doing some of the work your self, go in line, you may find some deals on used shop manuals.
If I've helped you out, give the folks at FIXYA some feedback please.. Good luck and if I can be of further assistance, just ask and I'll do my best to help.
It's kind of IRONIC, the first car that I saw this design of window regulator on was in Fiats from the 1960's! Here is an interesting "SNIGLET" The old Rolls Royce cars from the 60's and back used either what was or what appeared to be bicycle chains to offer positive drive to the window lifts!

sounds like the door/ window seal is broken open doors inspect rubber molding all around the doors/ windows good luck later