20 Most Recent 1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE CA Value - Page 3 Questions & Answers

maybe the blend doors not working

there should be 2 relay ,1 that is triggered by a/c on and then there is 1 that is controled by temp sensor. so if the electric fan comes on when you turn on the a/c obviusly that one is good. i think the other relay is under the hood at the power distribution box. here is a cheap trick. when you find the coolant fan relay take the a/c relay and put it in its place and put the coolant fan relay in the a/c relay spot. turn on the a/c and see if the fan still comes on

Chech the ignition timing is ok and is firing on the correct cylinder at the right time,

get a new one

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This is one of two things, it could be the fuel level sender or a bad fuel gauge, a bad gauge would mean replacing the cluster,I would run gas low and drop the tank, remove the fuel assm, the sender is the part that holds the pump, i will enclose a picture to show you.This being a 1996 Bonneville i would bet its the sender in the tank.i would change the fuel pump while you have the tank down. Also check wiring and connector as some of these pumps will tell you to replace the wiring and connector, this is supplied with the new pump.If you are replacing the pump also then replace the fuel filter.\The only problem is make sure you spray the line to the sender on the top side of tank and let soak. this is if there are rusted. in my area they are rusted on these older cars. good day. have enclosed the picture of the fuel pump and the sending unit . hope this is helpful.

alternator may be bad would cause dimming of lights and cause car to not start.

DTC P0300 - Random misfire... means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.

Symptoms may include the engine may be harder to start, the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate or other symptoms may also be present

A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plugs or wires
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector(s)
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
Faulty camshaft position sensor
Defective computer


DTC P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input... means that the the car's computer has detected that the TPS (throttle position sensor) is reporting too low a voltage. On some vehicles that lower limit is 0.17 - 0.20 volts (V). Did you adjust it when you installed it? If the signal value is less than .17V then the PCM sets this code. Could be an open or a short to ground in the signal circuit. Or you may have lost the 5Volt reference voltage.

A code P0122 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
TPS not mounted securely
TPS circuit short to ground or another wire
Faulty TPS
Damaged computer (PCM)


DTC P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)... this indicate that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time. You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.


Hope this helps.

If you have power it would not be an alternator problem unless its not charging the battery and the battery is dead or too weak to turn the starter.
You may have a VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) Pass KeyII at fault. Is there a Security light on in the dash?
You may want to start by testing the small wire (S Terminal) at the starter. Hook a test light to it and turn the key to start. If the light comes on then its a bad starter/solenoid. No light then its the ignition switch, any anti theft device (if you have an alarm that disables or is in any way connected to the starting system i.e. remote start, that could very well be the problem) or wiring.

Check your plugs, black and sooty is too rich, glazed and grey is too lean. If OK then the feedback from the cat is OK too. Do a voltage check on the crank shaft sensor, if open circuit then change it. Check voltage when cold and every three minutes while engine is warming up. If the voltage begins to drop then the sensor is near dead so change it.

1-6-5-4-3-2

third coil 3-2
second coil 5-4
first coil on bottom 1-6


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thanks

fuss ok? how about fuse link ?any light in cluster? when you turn ignition key to ''on'' position your dash lights should come on like engine , air bag , brake, etc and should turn off in few seconds if they dont come on, check the fuse panel for blown fusses. also check them for power with key on most of them should have power except a few that only power up when the engine cranks or runs. the fuss links are special pieces of cable that feed the susses they're designed to break when overheated and are on the positive battery cable in the starter side end . if the lights in the dash work as noted the security system may be active .

Sounds like an anti theft problem. Compare your symptoms to the ones on this site. Also options to fix yourself if this ends up being the problem. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Any repair shop (body shop or auto repair shop) should be able to handle trunk repair. You may want to look through your local yellow pages. Have you tried spraying a lubricant into the latch assembly, sometimes it help to lube it and use a screw driver to flip latch/lock to locked position and then release with key or trunk release button several times. Rust is prone to jam locks and latches. Most local auto parts stores carry these latches in stock, and it is relatively easy to change out. Let me know if you need further help.

Check the oil dipstick for water or antifreeze, also with car running go to the rear and see if you can smell antifreeze from your exhaust. If either of these are a yes you have a blown head gasket, a cracked head, or even possible a bad heater core. Is there moisture on the passenger side floor pan? If there is moisture there then a your heater core is bad.

Box under hood or back at gas tank with fuel pump