I have a 2.2l 1998 Pontiac sunfire that is overheating...It started out running a little warmer than normal, Then it started where it was getting into the yellow (ran at normal temp when idle) Then it progressed to full fledge overheating, I replace the themostat thinking that maybe it was sticking closed...That didnt work...then I replaced the waterpump...Nothing changed...My oil isnt milky (no antifreeze mixed)...Sometimes the heat in the cab will work fine then all the sudden it will stop and thats when it begins to overheat...almost as if the coolant stops flowing...The top radiator hose builds up with lots of pressure then it starts blowing antifreeze out of the reserve tank...Any help that can be offered will be greatly appreciated...I describe the problem to the best of my ability...If you need anything else checked just ask (rad fan is working also)
Posted by dmanley200... on
I have your fix, Disconnect your Heater Core hoses and flush out the Heater Core or replace it. The coolant has to pass through the Heater Core before it gets to the Thermostat. GM designed the cooling system this way to speed up in-cab heating.
Posted on Jan 31, 2011
2004 cavalier p0455
Posted by t_mlayman on
I had the same code for my 2004 chevy cavalier and it turned out to be the evap solenoid behind the passenger side rear tire. It has a small wiring harness coming out of it and a rubber hose connected to it. It just pops out of the frame of the car after unplugging said wire and hose. But you can only get another one by finding a junkyard that has one or going to a dealership.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
will not stay running
Posted by maywoodapp... on
Need a bit more information, Is the security light on, have you checked for spark and fuel pressure, just in case you did and know it is the passlock system then check this out, hopefully it will ansewer your problem, please rate your mechanics help.
have a great day.
GM Passlock I & II Information
Please study the following information carefully WHEN INSTALLING REMOTE START systems on a 1996 or later GM car or truck.
Introduced in 1996, GM has changed the VATS anti theft system to Pass-Lock system. This is a similar device to the VATS system, in that there is a resistor present during the start cycle. However, in the PASSLOCK system, the resistor has been placed inside the ignition switch, instead of the key. See the GM V.A.T.S page for more information.
To remotely start a car with this feature, you must bypass the PASSLOCK system. There are two methods of doing so.. The first, is to permanently bypass this system. This is the easiest method for accomplishing your task. The second way, is to temporarily bypass the PASSLOCK, by introducing relays into the system, which retain all of the features of the system, while allowing your remotes start module to bypass it automatically during a remote start cycle.
(1996 and newer): N & J body cars, such as
Pontiac Sunfire and GrandAm Passlock-1
Chevrolet Cavalier Passlock-1
Buick Skylark Passlock-1
Oldsmobile Achieva Passlock-1
1997 or newer
Chevrolet Malibu Passlock-II
Oldsmobile Cutlass Passlock-II
1998 or newer
All trucks , SUVs and Vans Passlock-II
It is important to pay special attention to the fact that there are many different ways of achieving the same goal. There are actually 2 different Passlock-II systems. On the next page, there are tests to establish which type of passlock-II your car has.
Relays shown are standard automotive 5 pin spdt relays, available from IEI.
A multi meter is required to measure the resistance values. Accuracy is important within 5%.
Once the value of the resistor is measured, a resistor of the same value +/-5% must be purchased (Radio Shack, for example). You can also use a Potentiometer (POT), which can be adjusted to the same value of the resistor in the ignition switch.
Passlock-I bypass procedure....
1: Remove the top and bottom shrouds from the steering column.
2: Find the 3 wire ribbon cable, coming from the ignition switch, containing White, Black, Yellow (Sometimes White, Black, Black). These are THIN wires.
3: Locate the Black 6 position connector on the LEFT side of the steering column, right above the ignition switch position. There is a BLACK (Thin) wire in this connector, called "Bulb Test", which shows Ground with ignition in the Off position, OPEN in the "Run" position, and GROUND in the "Crank" position.
4: Turn the ignition switch to the "Run" position. Do not crank the car.
5: Cut the Thin Yellow wire and strip both ends.
6: Without cutting the Black wire, expose some of the copper.
7: Using the ohmmeter, measure from the Yellow wire (the end coming from the ignition switch), to the exposed Black wire and record the value. Measure more than once to assure you have the right value.
8: Acquire the same size resistor and 3 relays, and perform the connections shown in the diagram below.
PASSLOCK-II bypass procedure
There are 2 types of Passlock-II systems. To determine which system you have, follow these instructions;
1: Locate two wires, which are THIN and are in the main ignition harness.. Orange/Black (or Black) and Yellow.
2: Cut the Yellow wire, and strip back some of the insulation from the Orange/Black (Or Black) wires.
3: Turn the ignition to the "Run" position ( don't crank the starter). Measure and record the value measured from the KEY SIDE of the Yellow wire, to the Black/Orange wire.
4: Turn the key to the "Crank" position and release. Now read the value again.
5: If the value changed, follow "Method#1". If the value stayed the same, follow "Method#2".
These diagrams are from our friends at ALARMTEK AUTO ALARM
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
P1629 code, vehicle starts for a second and shuts off ! Any workaround to the anti theft det. system? 2005 sunfire...
Posted by tmg4 on
try leaving the key on for 5 to 10 minutes
for the BCM (body control module) to relearn
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
Hi, I'm owner of a Pontiac Sunfire 1998, Standard transmision 5 gears, without AC. I stopped the car for fifteen days to fix it of many subjects: I've changed bearings and give maintenance to the starter motor and to the generator. First I've disconnected the battery.
After this fifteen days I've reconnected the battery to take the car to a mayor motor cleaning (it spills oil). The engine doesn't start, the "volts" light (battery sign) flashes unconstantly (like if it has a bad connection) and the "theft system" led remains on (not blinking) all time.
I've realized that maybe this protection was enabled because of the battery connects and disconnects, so I've brought a fuel injection engineer to get the computer scanned and erase the error code...
...was not succesful, he found the code in the scanner and have erased it but the "theft system" led remains still on. He told me to do the following:
- open the switch;
- bump on the starter once,
- release the key but keeping the switch open.
- wait for a self recognition of the computer till the led get off before starting the car.
that was 2 days ago, I've realized this operation several times and nothing works yet, even I've waited 4 or 5 hours between operations,
After this I've disassembled all the dashboard in order to check wire status, I've found nothing. I've also checked all the motor harnesses and connections and have found one or two cables without isolation, have them isolated. I also have follow the computer harnesses and disconnect and reconnect them. Same malfunction, not more nor less.
I am urged to find a solution to this problem, please somebody help me with this problem.
Thank you for your support. Abelardo Glez, Mexico
Posted by abegg76 on
I had the same thing and I had to do the bump starter and wait 10 min. and do it again.I did this for about 15 times.I was told that it depends on how far out of sink it had become.hope that it works for you.I asume that you do not have a chip in you key.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
need belt diagram for 1998 pontiac sunfire 2.2
Posted by miotkesrus on
Hello, I have a 1998 sunfire gt, which apparently has a "sealed transmission" meaning I can't check to see if I need transmission fluid. I know that there's something wrong with the tranny because it jerked when it would shift and now it's just not shifting at all. Is there any way that any one knows of that I can change or check the transmission fluid without bringing it into a shop?
Posted by girlwsunfi... on
There are 3 transmissions that could be in your car,the 3 speed auto and 4 speed auto overdrive,and of course the manual 5 speed.The 3 speed is designated the 3T40,the 4 speed auto is the 4T40E trans.To check the fluid level,first,the car has to be warmed up to at least 100 degrees Fahrenheit.The car has to be raised in the air,as there is a steel plug in the trans case that has to be removed to check the fluid level.The plug takes an 11 mm or 7/16" socket or wrench and is located on the passenger side of the trans case,near where the passenger side axle engages into the trans.The procedure is to warm the car up to at least 100 degrees,engage the shifter into each gear selection pausing for about 5 seconds in each gear,then remove the plug.If fluid drips out,it is full.If no fluid drips out,add fluid through the top of the trans after removing the red plastic cap,and make sure to use a long funnel to avoid a mess.Add fluid until it drips out the hole.When done,replace the plug and cap.Just a note,a transmission does not "use" fluid like an engine uses oil.If you have to add fluid,that means there is a leak that needs to be repaired.Good luck
Posted on Aug 29, 2008
2002 Pontiac Sunfire rear brakes locking when cold???
Posted by JJfratini on
Yes i fixed the problem i had to remove my backing plate and grind them smoth where the brake shoes rub on them then. I put some high temp brake grease between the shoes and the backing plate works great now!!! seems like the backing plate gets grided down by the metal from the brake shoes throug the years.. You will see the metal on the backing plate will have some ridges on them so make sure you grind them smoth
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
lookng for serpentine belt routing diagram for 1998 2.4 L sunfire
Posted by rllucking1 on
Sunfire Belt Routing Diagram
A drive belt routing diagram is needed when replacing a drive belt to help simplify the installation process. The problem arises as there are many different ways a drive belt can be configured. In this configuration the belt length will vary not allowing the belt to be installed. Also alternative configurations could turn a particular accessory the wrong direction, creating more problems. Always reinstall the drive belt in the exact configuration as the previous belt to prevent these problems. Always use high quality replacement products to avoid premature drive belt failure. If a multi rib drive belt fails it must be replaced immediately to avoid such situations such as engine overheating and loss of the power steering system. Whenever a belt replacement is required inspect the pulley condition to ensure there are no sharp edges on any of the pulleys, this will cause the belt to shred and fail. Confirm that all pulleys are free from debris such as small pebbles, these pebbles will cause the belt to pit and significantly impair the belt performance. The belt tensioner plays an important role to the drive belt performance, if this tensioner is weak it can allow the belt to lose tension allowing the belt to jump and skip. This condition will result in noises such as squeaking, chirping and ticking.
Hope helps (remember rated this help).
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
need a step by step procedure on how to replace the water pump cant find any thing on how to do it except that it is not easy have the tools and shop but need info on where to start on this 2.4 litre sunfire gt 1998 please help need info
Posted by jdbruce68 on
If you must do this yourself, I suggest that you get a guide from Chilton or Haynes at the auto parts store where you will be buying the new water pump. Since you will be draining the cooling system, now would be the time to change the thermostat and hoses if they haven't been touched in awhile. The guides will provide pictures for each step and fill in anything that I could miss. You will need to check with the parts counter and see if you need a paper gasket, RTV sealant or both and get a plastic scraper for taking off the old gasket. You will also need something to drain the old coolant into and buy new coolant to put back in. If you are taking the hoses out, get new clamps to ensure a tight fit. You might need a razor blade to cut the old ones off their fittings.
The basics of this procedure are that you will be removing the belts that drive the pump and other accessories; you will be removing both the fan and the fan shroud; you will remove the pump itself. While you are in there, it may be a good time to change the timing belt if it has one. Again, the guides will show you how to do this.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
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