1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I had same problem and turned out mine had bad o rings on the injector. I could hear air being sucked in until i put my finger near it. Might try injector o rings. If you're getting good compression on that cylinder and all cylinders are reading same compression within at least no more then 5psi difference between each cylinder then it is certainly not your cam shaft or anything to do with timing.

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid valve is an electrical device that is used with the torque converter clutch pulse width modulation (TCC PWM) solenoid valve in order to control TCC apply and release. The TCC solenoid valve attaches to the transmission case assembly extending into the pump cover. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the solenoid by providing the ground path. The PCM monitors the throttle position (TP) voltage, the vehicle speed and other inputs in order to determine when to energize the TCC solenoid valve.

replace the relay.....its common for it to go out.

Question moved from Car Audio. https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+chevy+s10+fuel+pump+wiring+diagram ..

• https://itstillruns.com/remove-pan-1997-chevrolet-s10-6524056.html---this is stated for 2wd ------this is 4wd ------Pan removal is possible with the engine in the vehicle on some of the powertrain combinations it is possible, it will often require the removal or repositioning of components including, the steering linkage assembly, the forward drive axle and crossmember (4WD) and/or the engine mounts. It is a difficult and tedious task to remove the oil pan with the engine in the vehicle. The chances of contaminating the bearing surfaces or damaging other internal engine components is great. Also, working under the vehicle with the engine jacked up in the frame puts you at great risk for great personal injury. Therefore, it is desirable in most cases to remove the engine in order to gain access to the oil pan. I imagine though, the oil pan could be changed without removing the engine even if you have to unbolt the motor mounts jack up the engine and place 2x4 pieces of wood between the block and frame to keep the engine up high enough to remove the pan. For the complete Chilton instructions ,click here. I might add, if there is a distributor at the rear near the firewall I would remove the cap and rotor so it dont get cracked while jacking the engine. Also, remove the bolts from the fan shroud is the fan will hit the shroud when jacking the engine and either remove the shroud or let hang free-----.courtesy of chilton

check the wires behind the alternator i had the same issuse it was a small eyelet wire or you could try a line from battery to power strip

it will be your fuel pump you need to replace

P0141 = O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 this refers to one of the Oxygen sensor on the exhaust system. These sensors monitor the fuel mixture in the exhaust fumes to measure if it is running a rich or lean mixture. This code refers to a certain sensor. Stand in front of the vehicle with the engine belts and pulleys nearest to you. the sensor your looking for is in the exhaust on the LEFT side of the engine, (Bank 1), AFTER the catalytic converter, (Sensor two). If your fuel/air mixture is wrong or the sensor thinks it is, The engine electronics will adjust the mixture possibly causing the Sputter. Get the sensor checked by a good mechanic.

The wires coming from your master cylinder are your brake light switch.

I can't comment about your engine but all the engines I have worked on stick to the same basic rules - each connecting rod and cap is individually finished as a pair so the caps aren't interchangeable. Most manufacturers engrave or stamp pairing numbers on the rod and the cap to ensure the right cap is returned to the right rod and as these markings are always on the same side it also serves to indicate which way around they are supposed to be fitted. If there are no such markings most mechanics will make their own identification marks. Each bearing shell has a locating tab that locates in a recess in the connecting rod and the cap, the purpose of which is to prevent the bearing shells rotating within the housing. I have yet to see an engine where those recesses aren't together on the same side when assembled. Each bearing shell protrudes a couple of thou from the housing so when the cap is fitted to the rod and the bolts tightened it squeezes the bearing shell by a small amount so it is held securely in the housing - this is called the "bearing knip" and is essential, as is ensuring any oil holes are aligned. If you have the correct bearings but when tightened they pinch the crankshaft it is possible someone in the past had filed the connecting rod caps to reduce the bearing clearance and get rid of noise without spending any money. Some careful measuring will be needed to decide if that is the trouble and if it is, one or more new rods will be needed or the correct size of shim fabricated and fitted...

could be a stuck starter or solenoid, get a hammer and hit the starter a few times if it starts replace the starter because it has a bad,broken or missing tooth or 2 and it will keep happening

possibly the fan relay for the heater

Put a new fuse in. The fuse works all 3 items in your vehicle.

Make sure battery has a full charge and connections all good. With intermittent issues have to test when problem is ongoing. Use a test lite or digital multimeter and check voltage at fuses in fuse box, some fuses hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. May have to check ignition switch? I'm not saying replace anything. I don't know what testing you have done?

Looks good!

try info from manuals at www.reliable-store.com

check this out. https://youtu.be/qo-WPpRbhaM

No, the longer length will not cause your problem. The longer wires are simply for the plugs longest from the distributor cap (or coil pack) to the spark plug, and no particular length is critical, just as long as all wires will fit. Do you mean it ran fine before you changed the wires and plugs? If so, you may have one or two not fully seated at one end or the other. Go back and make sure each wire is pushed in correctly, You should hear or feel the new wire snap over the new spark plug.

One these website you find fuse box diagram, description and location for Chevrolet S-10 (1997) Chevrolet 10 1997 fuse box diagram Auto Genius Chevrolet 10 1997 fuse box diagram

hello, should be attached to the fuse box on the bottom, it is round and plugs in to the fuse box some are on top some on the bottom. also blinker relay is there also.