1999 Chevrolet K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: clockwise




4.3L Engine
Firing order: 1–6–5–4–3–2
Distributorless ignition system

The links lead me to believe there are interchangeable. In fact this page confirms the compatible models https://shiftritetransmissions.com/shop/4l60e_98-05_4x4/ 1998-1999 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 4.3L 4X4 1998-1999 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 5.0L 4X4 1998-1999 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 5.7L 4X4 1998-1999 GMC Sierra K1500 4.3L 4X4 1998-1999 GMC Sierra K1500 5.0L 4X4 1998-1999 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7L 4X4 1998-2000 Chevrolet Tahoe 1500 5.7L 4X4 1998-2000 GMC Yukon K1500 5.7L 4X4 1998-1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L 4X4 1998-1999 GMC Suburban K1500 5.7L 4X4 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 5.7L 4X4 1999-2000 GMC Yukon Denali 5.7L 4X4 1998-2005 GMC Safari 4.3L 4X4 1996-2005 Chevrolet Astro 4.3L 4X4 1996-2005 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3L 4X4 1996-2001 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4X4 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3L 4X4 1998-2001 GMC Envoy 4.3L 4X4 1996-2004 Chevrolet S10 4.3L 4X4 1996-2005 GMC Sonoma 4.3L 4X4 https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+K1500+push+button+transmission+4WD https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Chevy+Tahoe+push+button+4WD+transmission+4L60E 1999 - 2006

bad VSS (chevy) k1500 not Suburan. 4th gear dead. NOT TOLD ALL 4wd or 2wd truck, and matters huge on VSS. 5.0L? no car mileage told or on tranny.. the scan tool tells you VSS is dead.,veh.speed,sensor. the transmission shifts by lots of variables and FOR SURE SPEED, is one, so the would't cause is dead wrong;. first thing to do is learn what box is there. (real name) GM car is GM transmissions sure but which exact one. and why do you ignore the speedo/tacho, they must work. chevy 1999 k1500 4L60E RPO Codes M30 4L60e electrically shifted by the TCM brain (it or PCM/TCM)_ to shift electronically many things most work VSS, and all speed sensors, and shift solenoids. and more this code smacks of cam timing errors top me. Trouble Code: P1345 (5.0L V8 VIN M Auto) Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation( < this word means OUT OF TIME in geek speak) the PCM predicts next cam pulse and is way the heck off time, and tells you it is and does not lie. OMG it has an old Distributor and CMP is bad or distributor ws never timed correctly as the SM directs. SM= service manual. this error can not be ignored, but back to transmission problem in drive To shift up the TCM brain must know speed in drive upshifts fail, hard. I am reading your SM now. learning what version this 4L60 is and all sensors and if it has line pressure control solenoid. to get the VSS DTC error one must drive long time to get it. but the speedo did not lie to you , VSS is dead. yes it has PCsol PCS solenoid that sets main tranny line pressure just before the shift, ( 3 soles to shift , not 2) as you go higher gears the main line pressure needed to do so needs lots more pressure from 75PSI to 175 PSI in drive. if not gears fail. now 2 photo to prove all this. first is VSS then 2nd is PCsol.

is the lock mechanism siezed,or is the linkage disconected?

check and test module and harness https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i04AE6r6YLM

If I am not mistaken, these have 2 separate flashers. One for the turn signals and one for the hazards. If memory serves correctly, the turn signal flasher is square and the emergency flasher is round.

Check your crankshaft sensor, if it's bad the computer goes into fail safe mode and kills power to the fuel pump.

Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached. Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best): Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque. Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".

need more info

is the security light flashing?

bad sending unit possiably

Sounds like the engine computer is falling into the limp in mode. The best way to know if it's the computer or a sensor is to run a diagnostic test . That way any codes stored in the computer will pinpoint the problem

I would check for a bad wheel bearing on the rear, also check the u-joints on the drive shaft.

check the fuel system pump, regulator, fuel pressure damper , return valve when the key is on the system needs to be pressurized and maintain pressure, if you dont have this , recheck your fuel system if everything is ok, than cranck the engine and look for injector fault

Top off brake peddle under dash pull clip .

Which ECM / PCM fuse was burnt ? How did you check fuel pressure ? With a pressure gauge or just pushing the scrader valve an seeing fuel dribble out ? Pull a plug wire an see if there is spark . Engine Cranks But Does Not Run Description The Engine Cranks but Does Not Run diagnostic table assumes that the battery condition and the engine cranking speed are OK. If the battery condition and the cranking speed are not OK, refer to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Electrical in Engine Electrical for diagnosis. Make sure that there is adequate fuel in the fuel tanks. Diagnostic Aids • Check the duct work between the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the throttle body for air leaks. • A malfunctioning MAF sensor may cause a no start or a stall after start. If you suspect this, disconnect the MAF sensor. The powertrain control module (PCM) will default to the speed density in order to calculate the load and the air flow. If this corrects the condition and the connections are OK, replace the MAF sensor. If the steps above check OK, refer to Symptoms . Test Description. The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table. It may be necessary to connect a battery charger to the battery for this step. If the battery state of charge is low, the scan tool may reset during the cranking test. This step tests the ignition relay for proper operation. The ignition relay supplies voltage to the injectors and the ignition coils. When the ignition relay is not operating properly, a no start condition occurs. If the test lamp does not illuminate, this indicates the ignition relay is not suppling a voltage to the fuses. The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is located above the starter. The camshaft position (CMP) sensor is located at the rear of the engine behind the intake manifold. The ignition feed circuit for the CMP and CKP sensors is internally connected within the PCM. A short to ground on either circuit will cause a no start condition. The fuel cap may need to be removed in order to hear if the fuel pump is operating. At this point the engine should start. Refer to Hard Start for further diagnosis.

Check for continuity of the ground.

transmission shift vacuum line damaged

check for anything not put back like it was before the job. then check for vacuum leak and fix.