20 Most Recent 1985 Mercedes-Benz S-Class - Page 5 Questions & Answers

it could very well be just the seat belt latch but you really need to see what codes are being set because there could be other issues as well. You need to get the SRS system scanned. I do not know if the seat will need to be removed. If the latch is attached to the seat itself and it most likely is I'd say yes the seat will have to come out. Very easy to do. Move seat in full back position to get front bolts out and full forward position to get rear bolts out and then carefully disconnect all electrical connectors going to the seat.

Battery and 2 leads earth to frame and then putvthe live into the harness conector touching each tab to see what moves

In the fuse box.. heres a pic..

Stop light switch is very common for this symptom, if the bas release switch has a stored code the whole break booster will need to be replaced.

If its an auto box check oil lvl or do a transmition oil and filter change most mercs are bullet proof and its normally daft things that make them go wrong

You shouldent have to just keep filling the rad up and sqweez the hoses the rotation of the water pump will remove the air so just fill and sqweez

Normally tiney rattley noises are just heat shields that have come loose check under the bonnet and under the car for loose heat shields also the heat shield around the cat can corode and come lose hopevthis helps ivan

Some Mercedes models have two batteries. If you were not the original owner you may not know this. Why two. The extra battery operates the starter even if the main battery goes dead. The extra battery is usually located under the cabin filter in the engine compartment. It is a special battery (small) like a motor cycle battery. It has probably died. Check your owners manual as locations may have changed. It is about 100 fix if you change it yourself.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/557086/Mercedes-Benz-Slk350.html?page=292 or http://mb-teilekatalog.info/?lang=E&mode=BM&class=1&aggtyp=&markt=AG&mmod=350 and choose option

It has been a long time but I seem to remember the K Jetronic is adjustable but the adjustments are normally sealed from view. I don't have the information to hand. I also seem to remember the system used a separate enrichment device for cold starting and warm up which could perhaps cause idle problems if it isn't working correctly. Considering the age of the car it would be wise to employ best practice and examine the basics first. Clearly considerable maintenance has already been carried out but you didn't mention a general tune-up where the ignition timing and valve clearances are checked, the engine breather, throttle body and fuel distribution metering unit is cleaned. It would be well worth checking for intake air leaks especially through the brake booster. If the intake valve seats aren't in virtually perfect condition each combustion can leak into the intake manifold and cause the next incoming charge ineffectual. Only a cylinder leakage test can diagnose this. If no other fault is found the quality of the injector spray pattern must be tested. If an injector isn't spraying correctly and the engine is running too slowly for the incoming air to break up large fuel droplets the burn will be impaired and although it will behave as a weak or lean mixture, much still burning fuel will be expelled through the exhaust valve.

in fuse box , engine compartement , left side

Right side turn/brake light wire is green. Running light wire is always brown on all four cornets. Left/drivers side turn/brake is always yellow. This is pretty much a universal standard.

There is a relay thats conected to the pump in the boot if this goes it doesent open also if the relay has gone it could be because its putting the relay under strain causing it to blow this could be due to a faulty pump or lack of fluid or leaking in the system