20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Expedition - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Did you check for voltage and ground at blower motor connector, with hvac on. See what your missing, voltage or ground? In the diagram, the top wire is voltage for blower motor and bottom wire is ground, note the wire colors. Use a testlite to check for voltage. Check for voltage at applicable fuses. Even if the fuse is good, if no voltage at the fuse circuit, the circuit is still dead. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.

well as far as going from a 4.0 v-6 to a 4.6 v-8 goes im sorry to say nothing would line up Not even the fuel lines as the engine you propose to use has two more cylinders so nothing would line up , plus the mcu wont be able to run It (the car is made for a v-6) nope plugs,fuel lines,trans bolts, exhaust pipe nothing will line up would require tons of hand fab and after market parts to even get it close but the added power of the v-8 would be cool !!!

It's a timing chain... They will probably last for as long as the vehicle does (175k-200k miles depending on upkeep and willingness to keep the dog alive). That said, if there's a reason to have the timing chain cover off an engine over 100k... I'm the type that would go ahead and replace the timing chain while it's in front of you if you plan on having the vehicle for more than a year or so.

If you have the engine pulled for any reason over 100k, then that's another time that I'd be replacing the timing chain and the oil pump while I'm at it...

You always want to put the side with the spring coil facing inside the motor block

Some thing is wrong. Luckily it happened while driving. The security is in fail safe mode. It has to be scanned to find the codes. Do it soon. If for some reason you loose power, it won't be in fail safe. You won't be able to start the truck then.

Could be a intermittent ground wire or loose wire.

check ecm for codes

check the fluid level and condition if needed change the fluid and filter. If not check the valve body and the wiring to it make sure your switch is good and not shutting it off

An on/off switch that controls your lights is stuck in the closed position. Slamming hatch unhinges it and returns it to open position where lites turn off. U have a few of those switches - at least one for each door.

Before i would adjust idle i would first check the timing. It should idle at or around 750 rpm. Secondly depending on how many miles you have put on the spark plugs i would also consider changing them. Changing spark plugs i a time consuming job. The ladt two plugs neareast the firewall are really hard to get out and when you put the plugs back in use a plug lubricant for the threads.

Higher idle due to vacuum suction in to the engine,coolant leak from the water ports at the bottom.this happens mostly on chevy trucks.

I don't I have ever replaced an ABS fuse. Most likely you have a bad wheel sensor. Have the codes read. You will still have brakes until you get it repaired. Just not anti lock brakes. Meaning that the wheels will stop turning if you hit the brakes hard enough.

Try checking out the PRNDL switch (neutral safety)on the tranny . Pull out the plug where the shifter cable linkage is and then check that signal wire at the starter for power . If it has no power with the switch unplugged you found your problem . Shorted neutral safety switch .Seen it many times on FORD .

its possible it could be a power or ground problem affecting the system or it could be the BCM causing the problem.

Go to autozone they will print out a pic for you and for free

Fuel pump failed. Check fuel pump reset. Also check fuel pump relay and circuit fuses

Yes to all of those! Have you checked the alternator is charging the battery?

Could be many reasons. Any codes set? Run tests--spark to plugs? Correct fuel pressure?