With a fuel pressure gauge. If there is a test port called a schraeder valve on the fuel rail on top of the engine, it's easy. If no test port, you have to tee off the fuel line somewhere convenient (like right after the fuel filter) and hook your gauge up there. Hook the gauge up, make sure of no leaking, turn key to on, and read the pressure (it will read the same pressure in the line as at the fuel rail). Check pressure with key on, and then with engine running- if at the specs for your vehicle, it's good. If pressure is below specs, pinch off or pull off the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, and see if pressure raises. If it does, try another pressure regulator. If no change, check the fuel return line for restrictions, check or replace the fuel filter, or suspect a poor performing fuel pump. On MPFI systems the pressure should be about 50 psi, but find the specs for your vehicle.
If the monitors won't set it has to have someother problem in the emissions on the vehicle > Doesn't any of the monitors set ? Is the check engine light on ? Have you tried a drive cycle ? do you know what that is ? You can google drive cycle for fords and it will tell you how to set the monitors
OBD2 Car Diagnostics Blog You can read about the monitors .
Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing ? You say battery is good and fuse's and the starter are good , how about battery cables an wiring ? Do you know what voltage drop testing is ? Do you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Check all power and ground connections .
Here is the drill.
Start with the battery.
Undo the terminals and give them a good cleaning. (Until shiny metal is showing, no matter what kind of metal)
Also, check the cables in particular that go to the terminal clamps. Although the cables are usually good, certain things can cause them to fail, like corrode or break inside the plastic cover.
You would not see the problem as the wire covering ( usually black plastic) is covering the problem.
Then, go to the starter solenoid, which can be on the inner fender or on the starter itself.
It is cylindrical in shape, and has two large terminals for wires, one to the battery, one to the starter.
It can cause this problem, and your year of 2001 means it is inside the range of "could fail".
After that, the only thing left is the starter motor itself.
If you can take it apart, it perhaps it can be rebuilt, or maybe it can only be replaced.
God bless your efforts.
The gauge is faulty or the sending unit in the fuel tank is bad ! There is away to test it, find a wiring diagram an locate the two wires at the fuel pump sending unit connector . Go to radio shack or some other electronics store an buy some resistors of differing resistance , I'm not sure of resistor sizes , I will look it up on my ford service info system. If you jump the right resisters into the fuel sending unit circuit you can make the gauge show 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 an full. If it move to those positions with the right size resistors it's not the gauge but the sending unit in the gas tank ! Diagnosis of Stuck Fuel Gauge Is it Gauge or Sending Unit
The coolant temperature sensor is failing. Usually the engine will be slow to start the first time. Turn it off and it will start normally. sometimes will not start cold. There are two sensors one for the gauge and one to the computer that meters fuel to the injectors. This one is located near the thermostat housing has a two wire connector (19MM deep well socket to remove)
There should be a main fuse for the abs and it is probably in the same grounding circuit as the radio. You want to double check and make sure 100% that all fuses are good, in the correct spot, good connection and the right amp fuse. It sounds like you have a ground that is not making connection or possibly a shorted or open circuit. The good news is this sounds like a very easy fix. The bad news is it might be tricky to find. If you have any ABS,BRAKE,TRACTION or CHECK ENGINE lights on you will have to scan the codes. ABS/Brake codes will start with a "C" then four numbers, example C0265, or you may have no communication. It will be one of the previous two outcomes. Before you get it scanned, i would call the shop ahead of time to make sure they have the ability to scan brake codes aka chassis codes, (hence the "C" for chassis). If you can get me these codes there is a very good chance I can pin-point your problem and tell you how to fix it FOR FREE :-) AutoZone and advanced auto scan codes for free, however they are limited to only engine codes and wont be able to accurately scan your brake codes. I am here if you need further assistance.
Regards,
-Tim
Sounds like a pinched wire leading from the drivers master switch in the door panel to the flexible tube containing wires in the door jamb, leading to a short in the wiring. Try squeezing the tube, and allowing the wires room to move.
There is a little green plastic clip that is attached to the cable and pull lever, if you trace from the pull lever and cable to mechanical lever then to bottom of the frame it is on the bottom half of the seat, you will see it once you flip up the seat bottom over , on the black metal frame is where the clip is at, towards the bottom and facing the other seat frame that your not flipped up. well anyways the green clip is probably broken, or the cable came undo( which I doubt) the clip is a weak point in the seat mechanism , you wont be able to find it a retail automotive stores, dealer item only , that's if they even carry it anymore, or you might try a junk yard and look around for another excursion seat or a f250 or super duty and use that one. I've heard that you might be able to use the American door lock clips plastic hardware, they are suppose to look alike, but ford wont tell you that. The kit is at AutoBodyToolmart .com Part # 9914 for about $26.99 , that's what I heard. Good Luck !!!