20 Most Recent 2001 Ford F350 Super Duty SuperCab - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it sounds like a ground porblem. Wierd elctrical stuff is always a ground loose or broken.

Check the eyelet ground uder the center of the dash. It may be attached to the brace or the IP behind the dash trim.

report results.

If the pads go in to the caliper there are clips on the pads. The inside pad clip fits inside the piston and the outside pad sort of clamps on the caliper. BUT, I just changed pads on an explorer, which is smaller and the pads fit inside the groves on the caliper bracket.

It is called a VLCM (variable load control module) and is located in front of the radiator-it is an unservicable module that controls the ac compressor switching, fuel injectors and radiator fans and some other functions on some models-it is a Ford thing.

It sounds like the steering gearbox has been over adjusted and will either require either adjustment or replacement. Also inspect the upper and lower ball joints. I would have a steering/ suspension/ alignment expert give it a look. Let me know if you need anything else.

in the engine bay fuse no 109 it uses a 40 amp fuse.good luck

The BLACK wires are ground. The LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wires are your high beam circuits. Then the low beam circuits are DARK GREEN/ORANGE on the right side and DARK BLUE/WHITE on the left side.

Hello there im Germany, I had somewhat of the same problem with my truck. What I did, I don't know if you can get them there, is bought a OBD-2 meter, that plugs into your trucks pc which is located just to the left of your drivers seat under and mounted on dash. It will tell you what code is coming up, as it told me I had a shifting solenoid on my transmission that was faulty. It even said which one, as there were 4 solenoids, I had no idea. This meter was well worth the money, you can get them on line also. I paid $79 for mine, but it has paid for its self many times over. I have a 2001 Chevy 1500 Silverado. I was able to change out this # 2 shifting solenoid, and it has worked great. This is an option for you.If your check engine light ever comes on, it will tell you why, and read the code to you on what the problem is and reset the light also, amazing meter. Give it a try, its better then loosing a automatic tranny!! Very costly. I wish you the best on this, and hope this has helped you out.
Shastalaker7

Hi,
the diesel system on your vehicle works on a continous 'loop". Tank to engine....engine to tank. The fuel filters and the water separator are very susceptible to the diesel fuel 'clouding" , making the fuel heavier to push around the system. The 'clouding' is actually a type of wax which is normally held in suspension within the body of the fuel and thus is not a problem.

The wax starts to plug up the fuel system, and cause lots of problems. The fuel, being harder to push around the system, takes more pressure to move it. This will result in diesel leaqkage at any and all outlets to atmosphere at the pressure end.

The problem is usually resolved by adding an additive to the fuel tank, or having a water separator with a heater., There are also weap-around heating cables which can be fitted to fuel lines to aleviate the same problem. If your water separator has an automatic dump valve, you might like to check that it is functioning correctly and the water content is not freezing and providing an exit for the diesel fuel.

Good luck.

if its a 7.3l, you need to drain water remove top hose, you will have three 5/16 bolts holding down thermostat housing, rmove thermostat, now you need to go ahead and replace the thermostat housing as well. they are very bad about warping then not sealing off again

try replcing the headlight relay .

The fuel is not igniting. Be careful not to flood the engine. It will be harder to start it in the long run. You may want to check your spark plugs. It can't be the battery if the engine is cranking. Hope this helps! Please rate 4 thumbs up!

It may be a loose bolt on one of your wheels.
It would be best to have those involved in the process you have done inspected. If you can, jack the car up and remove the wheels and inspect the calipers. Check out for loose bolts. Look out for signs of contact like wear or small dents which may have caused knocking sound. Since the noise cam after a service under you vehicle it would be best to check them.
Check with the shop that did the installation. This should be covered in their warranty for their service.