Top 20 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab Questions & Answers

Check the plug and number of wires going in order.

There's a module under the truck by the transfer case check all fuses what year? and what size motor? Clean and use carbon conductive grease on plugs could be from corrosion and oxidation of the contacts post back with more info and write down everything that you did and I'll get you to the problem cause I'm a taxi mechanic in NYC and I have 50 years experience in all cars and trucks remember I'm not there so your post should be well thought out with the info before sending ok thanks Stephen

I would start by unplugging the batteries for a few minutes and letting the system reset. Plug them back in and start her up. I had a similar issue and after driving a few blocks the light went off.

Your flexplate and/or torque convertor are out of balance. If recently replaced it should be a warranty issue. By your testing you have determined it's transmission related. I have seen new/rebuilt torque convertors be balanced incorrectly.

GOOGEL IT

There is a relay. But first check for good ground on the black wire at the compressor clutch. Wiggle while testing to make sure it's good. If so, then suspect a bad relay. Relay is controlled by the PCM

Dirt or mud may entered the hub. Disassemble the unit clean and lubricate the system.

shocks will be that same bolts and rubbers as OEM equipment they are just more robust and engineered differently internally talk wit suspension professional shops to get the right units for your application

The park pawl inside the transmission is broken. It's a sizeable chunk of metal and needs to be replaced.

Without testing the electronic's , hooking up a professional type scan tool an checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's etc ... we'd only be guessing . Probably the instrument cluster,but that is just a guess . Are you aware that the instrument cluster has a microprocessor an logic . Serial data communication network the modules share info. on ? Your vehicle has 10 or more modules (computers ) . What's the voltage at the battery terminals with the vehicle running ? Viewing wiring diagrams for electrical distribution an testing with a DMM - digital multi-meter would be a next step in the diagnostic procedure ,if no code's ! Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on instrumentation . Click the search button then the blue link. Pull the instrument cluster ,with it still connected to the vehicle , check power an ground circuit's .

possible front drive shaft they wear in the slip joint and any looseness in the "U" joints will cause a harmonic vibration that comes and goes

I would start with a service on it.

Try spraying some WD40 over the small switch that is half way down the front of both doors they are probably rusted up what we don't see much is what we all forget. should solve your problem. Hope this helps Best wishes, Malcolm Campbell.

I would not drive the truck. It needs a new booster or at least repair. Probably a broken return spring inside.

Does the truck have daytime driving lights ? Sounds like a short , maybe the switch inside the steering column . Turn signal , wiper , headlamp dimmer ,or multifuction switch . Without testing this is just a guess . Find a wiring diagram at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html there free , get yourself a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test the B+ volt into an out of the switch . moving dimmer from low to high an turning on the turn signals etc.... Suggest you watch a few videos on youtube for automotive electrical testing , how to use a wiring diagram etc.... disconnect circuits at the mutifunction switch . Measure the resistance between multifunction switch C202a pin 44, circuit 44 (LB), harness side, and electronic flasher connector pin 1, circuit 44 (LB), harness side; and between multifunction switch C202a pin 44, circuit 44 (LB), harness side, and ground.

• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms between the multifunction switch and the electronic flasher, and greater than 10,000 ohms between the multifunction switch and ground?

Carry out the multifunction switch component test; Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 149 for schematic and connector information. .

• Is the multifunction switch OK?

Yes INSTALL a new electronic flasher. TEST the system for normal operation. No INSTALL a new multifunction switch; REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation. Testing the electrical circuits of all the system not functioning properly is how you go about finding the problem .

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage. Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
   • Headlamp switch
   • Multifunction switch
   • Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 3 (30A)
   • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
     • 5 (15A)
     • 16 (20A)
     • 26 (10A)
     • 28 (10A)
   • Wiring harness
   • Loose or corroded connections
   • Headlamp relay (if equipped)
   • DRL relay No. 2 (if equipped)
   • DRL jumper (if equipped)
   • RAP module (if equipped)
   • Central security module (if equipped)
   • Light sensor amplifier (if equipped)
   • Headlamp bulb

1. If the concern is not visually evident, determine the symptom and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

Symptom Chart NOTE: Refer to the Wiring Diagrams for connector numbers stated in the pinpoint test. Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• Both headlamps are inoperative

• Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 3 (30A).
• Headlamp switch.
• Circuitry.
• Multifunction switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• The low beams are inoperative

• Central junction box (CJB).
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• The high beams are inoperative

• CJB fuse 16 (20A).
• Circuitry.
• CJB.
• Multifunction switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• One low beam headlamp is inoperative

• CJB fuses:
  • 28 (10A) (LH).
  • 26 (10A) (RH).
• Headlamp bulb.
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• One high beam headlamp is inoperative

• Headlamp bulb.
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

• The headlamps are on continuously

• Headlamp switch.
• Circuitry.
• Multifunction switch.
• Daytime running lamp (DRL) relay No. 2 (if equipped).
• DRL jumper (if equipped).
• Headlamp relay (if equipped).
• Remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module (if equipped).
• Central security module (if equipped)
• Light sensor amplifier (if equipped).

• GO to Pinpoint Test F .

• The high and low beam headlamp is inoperative on one side

• Circuitry.

• REPAIR circuit 57 (BK). TEST the system for normal operation.

• The flash-to-pass feature is inoperative

• Multifunction switch.

• CHECK circuit 196 (DB/OG) for an open. REPAIR if necessary. If OK, INSTALL a new multifunction switch; REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation.

check that you have the firing order set from no 1 compression and that it is not 180 degrees out

Are you even aware of what that does? The only thing it does is open an air door under the dash that switches the air intake from outside air to inside air.

if your fuses are all ok then, it maybe the low pressure switch in your rec/dry'r tank saying there's not enough pressure in system to circulate (sorry some pressure doesn't count) , so hence it wont allow the compressor clutch to engage , these systems typically should have approx. greater than 20 psi in the rec/dryer tank (low pressure) and from 90 to 110 on the high side , also if one suspects the dash control being damaged , try it on defrost setting , as that makes compressor run as well

Have you checked your fluid lvl? Sounds like you might need to look towards the trans pump or torque converter.