Top 10 2003 Ford Escape Questions & Answers

2003 Ford Escape Car Audio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange/Light Green
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Cell Phone Mute Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located on the right side of the trunk area.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Yellow
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Light Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink


got this from www.modifiedlife.com

i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.

Lift up on the rear seat cushion and fold it towards the front. Now pull the lever and fold the seat down.

Engine over heating can be caused by a number of things. When you say the water pump and radiator appear to be ok I am also guessing that you checked the coolant level to make sure it is normal.

If the level is low then you obviously have a leak. Insufficient coolant circulating will not cool the motor properly because it won't be able to draw enough heat out. If the level is normal then you need to check the thermostat to make sure it is opening properly. To do this, run the motor to temperature and check the top and bottom hoses. They should both be hot and firrm once the thermostat opens meaning the circulation loop is operating properly. If the top is hot and firm and the bottom is cold/soft or collapsed then the thermostat isn't opening.

If the thermostat is operating properly then you ned to look for some other obstruction or cause for coolant loss. Check the head/intake gaskets, hose connections, hoses, over flow tank, radiator fins, radiator side tanks etc..

Good luck.

It might be the rack and pinion kit (seals)

I had this problem 2 months ago... replaced the powersteering pump 3 times until I convinced the mechanics to look at the rack and pinion. there they found the leak, especially when I turned the wheel.. They first kept telling me there was air in the lines and it would go away. but that never happened.

The fuse for the power outlet is located under the hood in the fuse/relay box, heres a few diagrams to help you, there are two fuses one for front outlet and the rear outlet has its on fuse if your truck has a rear outlet, hope this helps,

For a 2002 Escape the hub nut is 32 mm. The torque specification is around 175 ft.-lbs.

Both your low beam and your high beam is protected by the same fuse, so it makes sense that the fuse is OK if the high beam is working on the passenger side. There are 3 fuses for the headlamps. Fuse #13 in the Battery Junction Box (20 Amp). If this fuse is blown, the headlamp relay will not have any power and neither high nor low beam on either side will work (you will have no headlamps at all) Then there is Fuses #2 and #3 (15 Amp) in the Battery Junction Box. #2 goes to the left low and high beam and #3 goes to the right low and high beam.
The headlamp switch uses a SINGLE CIRCUIT to control BOTH sides at the same time, so if one side works, the switch cannot be the problem. The headlamp relay provides power for fuses #2 and #3 and we already ascertained that these fuses must have power since we have working lights on both sides, so the relay cannot be the problem. A replacement bulb has already been tried, so that pretty much leaves us with a bad lamp socket. (Most likely cause) or a bad connection at splice #S122, which is located in the main wiring harness near the breakout for the left headlamp. (RED/BLACK wire)

It is telling you that either your seat belt is not on or your passengers is not on. There is a sensor inside the seat belt buckle that tells the car you are wearing it. If the passenger seat senses the weight of a person (or big dog) and they don't have the buckle on then the light will come on. If the seat belts are both buckled in then you must have a bad sensor on the buckle.

This must be one of those disposable guage/can things.Are you really going to trust a disposable guage?If the clutch wouldn't engage at all,and after adding some refrigerant,it engages erratically,it's probably still low on charge.Keep adding refrigerant while the system is running,until the compressor cycling becomes more normal.I like to place a box fan up against the grill to blow air over the condensor,to simulate the air flow created by the vehicle driving down the road.This lowers the temperature and pressure of the high side,allowing the refrigerant to flow in faster.You might also want to put a thermometer in the center dash duct to monitor the duct termperature.